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It's time once again to talk about bikes.
Post your bikes, discuss accessories, gear, difficulties and anything else.
Post your bikes, discuss accessories, gear, difficulties and anything else.
I got hit by a tractor trailer and had to get surgery to fix my arm. He just ignored right of way and tried to squeeze in past me and go straight while I was headed left on a forked road and I ended up being clipped by the back wheels. I haven't ridden since.
>>40523
Any lasting injuries?
Often the safest spot on the road for a cyclist to be is right in the middle of the lane. It makes you more visible and dissuades motorists from trying to squeeze past you and clipping you or running you off the road.
Any lasting injuries?
Often the safest spot on the road for a cyclist to be is right in the middle of the lane. It makes you more visible and dissuades motorists from trying to squeeze past you and clipping you or running you off the road.
>>40524
No, luckily the surgery went well and I'm fully recovered.
I was actually in the left of the lane near the line so for that guy to have tried to pass me there was pretty inexcusable. I had assumed he was going left also since he didn't slow down at all so I just kept turning. Turns out he didn't slow down because he thought he could squeeze in past me.
No, luckily the surgery went well and I'm fully recovered.
I was actually in the left of the lane near the line so for that guy to have tried to pass me there was pretty inexcusable. I had assumed he was going left also since he didn't slow down at all so I just kept turning. Turns out he didn't slow down because he thought he could squeeze in past me.
>>40523
>>40525
I hope this didn't discourage you from cycling indefinitely. While the faults of drivers, especially those piloting large vehicles, is often inexcusable, I think cyclists are partly to blame for putting to much faith in drivers' ability to follow the rules of the road. Too many tinted windows and cellphones are in cars these days. I encourage all wizards who don't wish for death to assume every motor vehicle to be a threat.
I went for a tumble a couple weeks back because someone pulled out to merge from a driveway without seeing me. If I hadn't gotten in his path though he would have cut off other motor traffic anyway. My budget bike fell apart and I got off lucky, but since then I've had multiple close encounters with cars even when I'm on a dedicated bike lane. Flashing headlamps don't really do much besides shoo pedestrians away.
>>40525
I hope this didn't discourage you from cycling indefinitely. While the faults of drivers, especially those piloting large vehicles, is often inexcusable, I think cyclists are partly to blame for putting to much faith in drivers' ability to follow the rules of the road. Too many tinted windows and cellphones are in cars these days. I encourage all wizards who don't wish for death to assume every motor vehicle to be a threat.
I went for a tumble a couple weeks back because someone pulled out to merge from a driveway without seeing me. If I hadn't gotten in his path though he would have cut off other motor traffic anyway. My budget bike fell apart and I got off lucky, but since then I've had multiple close encounters with cars even when I'm on a dedicated bike lane. Flashing headlamps don't really do much besides shoo pedestrians away.
>>40526
I'm only going to go on dedicated bike trails from now on. When I first got into biking everyone kept telling me stories of people they knew who had been maimed or killed and I just ignored them thinking stupidly that somehow it wouldn't happen to me, but this has really opened my eyes and made me realize that it just isn't safe to ride on the road with cars constantly passing you.
I'm only going to go on dedicated bike trails from now on. When I first got into biking everyone kept telling me stories of people they knew who had been maimed or killed and I just ignored them thinking stupidly that somehow it wouldn't happen to me, but this has really opened my eyes and made me realize that it just isn't safe to ride on the road with cars constantly passing you.
all my bicycle's lines and brakes froze shut it's so cold here
I'm walking for the next 6 months
I'm walking for the next 6 months
>>40527
How important is lightness to you and how many zeros do you have in your bank account?
You are paying a premium for lightening each part by a few grams to at most a few ounces. I honestly don't think it matters to most riders but if you have the cash then it is up to you.
How important is lightness to you and how many zeros do you have in your bank account?
You are paying a premium for lightening each part by a few grams to at most a few ounces. I honestly don't think it matters to most riders but if you have the cash then it is up to you.
How many lights are too many lights?
I am really tempted to turn my bike into a moving light show. Looking at those led thingies that go on your wheels that show pictures and even animations when you get to the right speed, a string of lights for the frame, new headlight that is "1500 lux" in brightness, a tall light that projects patterns on the ground, and two extra tall lights to stick on my panniers.
I think all that would be missing is a sound system and a fucking disco ball.
I know it would be dumb and I have no good reason to do it, and it would draw way too much attention to myself, but imagining riding something glowing with that many lights on a pitch black country road puts a goofy smile on my face every time I think about it.
I am really tempted to turn my bike into a moving light show. Looking at those led thingies that go on your wheels that show pictures and even animations when you get to the right speed, a string of lights for the frame, new headlight that is "1500 lux" in brightness, a tall light that projects patterns on the ground, and two extra tall lights to stick on my panniers.
I think all that would be missing is a sound system and a fucking disco ball.
I know it would be dumb and I have no good reason to do it, and it would draw way too much attention to myself, but imagining riding something glowing with that many lights on a pitch black country road puts a goofy smile on my face every time I think about it.
Both wheels are showing sings of wear but i don't have money to repair them. God i need money.
>>40536
No such thing as too many lights.
>new headlight that is "1500 lux" in brightness,
PLEASE point it downward and put a visor over it. It might be cool to see every insect and raindrop in front of you, but oncoming cyclist are liable to wipe out if such a bulb is visible. I need to wear a ball cap just to keep headlamps out of my eyes when riding in the dark, and even then the afterimage of whatever light was hitting the ground is blinding for a few seconds.
Christmas time is good for LED light strips which come with a small battery box. Don't buy any overpriced lights advertised as bicycle or automotive accessories. If you can wait a couple months, go on eBay or Amazon and get a bunch of $0.99 strips and bulbs dropshipped from China.
No such thing as too many lights.
>new headlight that is "1500 lux" in brightness,
PLEASE point it downward and put a visor over it. It might be cool to see every insect and raindrop in front of you, but oncoming cyclist are liable to wipe out if such a bulb is visible. I need to wear a ball cap just to keep headlamps out of my eyes when riding in the dark, and even then the afterimage of whatever light was hitting the ground is blinding for a few seconds.
Christmas time is good for LED light strips which come with a small battery box. Don't buy any overpriced lights advertised as bicycle or automotive accessories. If you can wait a couple months, go on eBay or Amazon and get a bunch of $0.99 strips and bulbs dropshipped from China.
>>40535
What about Aluminum? I just want to carry it up bridges and buildings and cheaper bikes are heavy, I supposed the design matters to, maybe some aluminum small bike could do the trick, it is not for competitive purposes at all.
What about Aluminum? I just want to carry it up bridges and buildings and cheaper bikes are heavy, I supposed the design matters to, maybe some aluminum small bike could do the trick, it is not for competitive purposes at all.
>>40547
Aluminium is good but pricey and rare outside of pro sport bikes. Look for graphite steel mountain bikes or step-through folding models. Folders in particular are getting cheap, and while they could be heavy, compacting the length makes it all the easier to move.
Aluminium is good but pricey and rare outside of pro sport bikes. Look for graphite steel mountain bikes or step-through folding models. Folders in particular are getting cheap, and while they could be heavy, compacting the length makes it all the easier to move.
>>40549
Are you talking about some kind of special high-end aluminum alloy or something? $500 got me an aluminum-frame hybrid a few years ago. I think $450 is about the point where you start seeing bikes with frames made of aluminum and equipped with low-end but not crappy components. Cheaper than that and you come across frames made of hi-ten steel, which is relatively quite heavy to any materials in higher price ranges.
Just looked at Trek's budget bikes and they have one that's $350 with an aluminum frame. Of course, it's 28lbs because it goes cheap with everything else on it, but regardless, it's still an aluminum frame on a cheap bike.
Are you talking about some kind of special high-end aluminum alloy or something? $500 got me an aluminum-frame hybrid a few years ago. I think $450 is about the point where you start seeing bikes with frames made of aluminum and equipped with low-end but not crappy components. Cheaper than that and you come across frames made of hi-ten steel, which is relatively quite heavy to any materials in higher price ranges.
Just looked at Trek's budget bikes and they have one that's $350 with an aluminum frame. Of course, it's 28lbs because it goes cheap with everything else on it, but regardless, it's still an aluminum frame on a cheap bike.
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I'm contemplating on doing another bike tour next summer. I already have all the gear purchased + experience, so I can just head out with little preparation whenever I'd like really. It also might be my only opportunity to do a long trip since I'll likely start wagecucking full time after summer. I won't ride recreationally at all in the mean time, since I'm a bit fed up with biking atm. I'll start training a few weeks before the tour. The only riding I'm doing now is a short commute every day, and I'll have to take a break from that too since it's frost season.
>>40549
I don't know what country you are from but aluminum is hyper common and inexpensive in the US. Most bikes here are aluminum or some sort of alloy mostly of aluminum.
Carbon is way rarer and MUCH more expensive by comparison. Even the cheap as shit bso's at places like Walmart are usually aluminum alloy.
Most steel bikes I see on the streets tend to be very old. Most shops around me rarely have newer steel frame bikes in at all. When they do they tend to be specialty bikes that demand a higher price.
I don't know what country you are from but aluminum is hyper common and inexpensive in the US. Most bikes here are aluminum or some sort of alloy mostly of aluminum.
Carbon is way rarer and MUCH more expensive by comparison. Even the cheap as shit bso's at places like Walmart are usually aluminum alloy.
Most steel bikes I see on the streets tend to be very old. Most shops around me rarely have newer steel frame bikes in at all. When they do they tend to be specialty bikes that demand a higher price.
>>40551
I guess it's a matter of value perception because I consider $350 to be pricey for a bicycle regardless of frame material.
>>40558
Aluminium alloy is pretty much the standard where I am too, but the specific ratio of steel/aluminum used begs the question of whether or not it's going to have a positive impact on the lightness of the frame. It wouldn't surprise me if there was 1 part aluminium to 49 parts steel, and they just threw the alloy in there so they can advertise it as a space-age science frame. Solid aluminium frames are much better in my opinion, but the welding and forming process is arguably too difficult for true budget models to be available.
I guess it's a matter of value perception because I consider $350 to be pricey for a bicycle regardless of frame material.
>>40558
Aluminium alloy is pretty much the standard where I am too, but the specific ratio of steel/aluminum used begs the question of whether or not it's going to have a positive impact on the lightness of the frame. It wouldn't surprise me if there was 1 part aluminium to 49 parts steel, and they just threw the alloy in there so they can advertise it as a space-age science frame. Solid aluminium frames are much better in my opinion, but the welding and forming process is arguably too difficult for true budget models to be available.
>>40559
Most alloys are better then something relatively pure aluminum.
A example would be aircraft grade aluminum alloy, which is pretty commonly used in kick scooters, especially Razor brand stuff.
Also aluminum steel alloys are not commonly used for bike frames according to my knowledge and what I have looked up on the topic. It is too brittle under normal circumstances.
Would be cool if they made a bike out of this stuff though
www.sciencealert.com/new-super-steel-alloy-is-as-strong-as-titanium-but-10-times-cheaper
Most alloys are better then something relatively pure aluminum.
A example would be aircraft grade aluminum alloy, which is pretty commonly used in kick scooters, especially Razor brand stuff.
Also aluminum steel alloys are not commonly used for bike frames according to my knowledge and what I have looked up on the topic. It is too brittle under normal circumstances.
Would be cool if they made a bike out of this stuff though
www.sciencealert.com/new-super-steel-alloy-is-as-strong-as-titanium-but-10-times-cheaper
>>40527
Generally no. It's very expensive. It's also very light.
If you have a budget, like, at all, it's better to go for an aluminium frame and a higher end groupset.
Good aluminium frames are really quite light, and higher end groupsets are lighter than lower ones.
Although with cycling, it really is more money = lighter. Carbon isn't worth it until the high end, I think.
However, there is… one option. You can go with chinese carbon frames. Not knockoffs, but established chinese brands. Knockoffs are a disgrace, but actual chinese brands do have reputations to protect if they're a larger brand. My brief research shows that Dengfu, Hongfu, Xiamen, and Miracycle are all decent brands- as in you'll be riding something as reliable as anything else (but not as light as a high end western carbon frame). My gut tells me that they pack on more layers of carbon when making them to increase robustness at the cost of weight.
However, you'd need to assemble the bike fully, from frame, fork, and groupset. That requires not that much expertise really, but it will require tools. If you don't feel like you can build a bike (or you don't trust chinese carbon- if you're careful sourcing it you really can trust it. I'm going to buy some chinese carbon handlebars and a seatpost. Two of them, each. Test one to destruction, then use the other.)
Aluminium isn't expensive. If you live in europe you can get some sick good aluminium bikes from b'twin.
Go with alu. You can get sub 10kg fairly easily.
Generally no. It's very expensive. It's also very light.
If you have a budget, like, at all, it's better to go for an aluminium frame and a higher end groupset.
Good aluminium frames are really quite light, and higher end groupsets are lighter than lower ones.
Although with cycling, it really is more money = lighter. Carbon isn't worth it until the high end, I think.
However, there is… one option. You can go with chinese carbon frames. Not knockoffs, but established chinese brands. Knockoffs are a disgrace, but actual chinese brands do have reputations to protect if they're a larger brand. My brief research shows that Dengfu, Hongfu, Xiamen, and Miracycle are all decent brands- as in you'll be riding something as reliable as anything else (but not as light as a high end western carbon frame). My gut tells me that they pack on more layers of carbon when making them to increase robustness at the cost of weight.
However, you'd need to assemble the bike fully, from frame, fork, and groupset. That requires not that much expertise really, but it will require tools. If you don't feel like you can build a bike (or you don't trust chinese carbon- if you're careful sourcing it you really can trust it. I'm going to buy some chinese carbon handlebars and a seatpost. Two of them, each. Test one to destruction, then use the other.)
Aluminium isn't expensive. If you live in europe you can get some sick good aluminium bikes from b'twin.
Go with alu. You can get sub 10kg fairly easily.
>>40562
Oh by the way we're still talking like $1600 for a chinese carbon bike. $800 for the frame + fork, $300 for a groupset like tiagra, $200 for seatpost, handlebars, seat, then $200-300 for some alloy wheels. Plus a $100 for misc items, like tires, cables, tools, etc.
Which doesn't make a whole lot of sense since you can get a real carbon bike for that sort of price. But yeah, carbon bikes don't exist (or very rare) below $1500 new. Used carbon bikes you can get for much less, but there's the whole used thing.
You can reduce the price somewhat by delving into used (stolen) parts. Used shifters, calipers, derailleurs, crankset are all fine, but you want new cogs. Teeth on those gears do wear, but everything else is fine. Bikes get lighter by emptying your wallet, unfortunately.
Generally just get a budget and look for the lightest thing you can get that's also a real bike and not a bicycle-shaped-object from walmart.
Oh by the way we're still talking like $1600 for a chinese carbon bike. $800 for the frame + fork, $300 for a groupset like tiagra, $200 for seatpost, handlebars, seat, then $200-300 for some alloy wheels. Plus a $100 for misc items, like tires, cables, tools, etc.
Which doesn't make a whole lot of sense since you can get a real carbon bike for that sort of price. But yeah, carbon bikes don't exist (or very rare) below $1500 new. Used carbon bikes you can get for much less, but there's the whole used thing.
You can reduce the price somewhat by delving into used (stolen) parts. Used shifters, calipers, derailleurs, crankset are all fine, but you want new cogs. Teeth on those gears do wear, but everything else is fine. Bikes get lighter by emptying your wallet, unfortunately.
Generally just get a budget and look for the lightest thing you can get that's also a real bike and not a bicycle-shaped-object from walmart.
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mountainbiking is very comfy, guys.
Its very thrilling to cycle through the woods and jumping off a small ledge every now and then.
Its good for your body too, being fat is just death to your happiness.
Pic related is a bike I used to cycle when I was first year medical school. It was recalled at time of picture so got a full refund after using it for a year: the king of bikes.
Its very thrilling to cycle through the woods and jumping off a small ledge every now and then.
Its good for your body too, being fat is just death to your happiness.
Pic related is a bike I used to cycle when I was first year medical school. It was recalled at time of picture so got a full refund after using it for a year: the king of bikes.
I am still mentally transitioning from kick scooter to bicycle.
One thing that I still haven't gotten used to is the speed difference. It is so fast that I end up mentally behaving like I am driving a motorized vehicle, which seems to piss off certain drivers.
I also get everywhere super early.
One thing that I still haven't gotten used to is the speed difference. It is so fast that I end up mentally behaving like I am driving a motorized vehicle, which seems to piss off certain drivers.
I also get everywhere super early.
Anyone got a sizing and fitting guide they trust?
Never bought a bike online before but for budget reasons I think it might be the best option.
Besides I am a strong independent wizard who don't need no bikechad to upsell me into something more expensive then I need.
Never bought a bike online before but for budget reasons I think it might be the best option.
Besides I am a strong independent wizard who don't need no bikechad to upsell me into something more expensive then I need.
>>40801
sizing and fitting guide they trust?
>trust
Go to a large retailer like decathlon in w-europe or wallmart in the US totry the bike on first. Obviously fuck you if you live anywhere else.jk buddy
sizing and fitting guide they trust?
>trust
Go to a large retailer like decathlon in w-europe or wallmart in the US totry the bike on first. Obviously fuck you if you live anywhere else.jk buddy
>>40801
I bought my first (real) bike online like 9 months ago. Sizing is simple- It depends on the bike.
Measure your height. When you find a bike you like, refer to the manufacturer of the frame to see what sized frame you need to get. I'm 5'10 so I got a 57cm frame, it's what the manufacturer of the bike I got said.
If you're borderline, err towards a smaller frame since you can stick a saddle up and make the reach longer with a different stem easier than making these things shorter.
As for what type of bike to get- I can answer questions about that too. In the last year I learned a shitload about bikes. In short; get something you think you'll enjoy. Doesn't matter how useful it is, how neat it is or how cheap it is if you'll never ride it because you don't like it. Also don't be intimidated by drop handlebars, they're designed to be ergonomic and comfortable, they're not difficult. And you get STI shifters which are amazing. Also if you're in europe, Decathlon bikes are great for the money. No joke, I got one and it's good.
I bought my first (real) bike online like 9 months ago. Sizing is simple- It depends on the bike.
Measure your height. When you find a bike you like, refer to the manufacturer of the frame to see what sized frame you need to get. I'm 5'10 so I got a 57cm frame, it's what the manufacturer of the bike I got said.
If you're borderline, err towards a smaller frame since you can stick a saddle up and make the reach longer with a different stem easier than making these things shorter.
As for what type of bike to get- I can answer questions about that too. In the last year I learned a shitload about bikes. In short; get something you think you'll enjoy. Doesn't matter how useful it is, how neat it is or how cheap it is if you'll never ride it because you don't like it. Also don't be intimidated by drop handlebars, they're designed to be ergonomic and comfortable, they're not difficult. And you get STI shifters which are amazing. Also if you're in europe, Decathlon bikes are great for the money. No joke, I got one and it's good.
>>40801
On a related note I was at a bike shop recently looking for a new bike to commute long distance.
The shop keep kept on saying this one particular bike fit me well but the top tube comes right to my balls so if I came of the seat it would be a bad day for me. In my light research it suggested avoiding such a situation and getting a bike where you have about a couple inches of clearance. That said the shop guy said that for touring and long distance riding I should get the biggest bike my body can accommodate so that I am as stretched out as much as possible.
When I test rode the bike it felt great, like the best I can remember feeling on a bike (it has been awhile) but I am concerned about the risk to my balls.
What do you guys think?
On a related note I was at a bike shop recently looking for a new bike to commute long distance.
The shop keep kept on saying this one particular bike fit me well but the top tube comes right to my balls so if I came of the seat it would be a bad day for me. In my light research it suggested avoiding such a situation and getting a bike where you have about a couple inches of clearance. That said the shop guy said that for touring and long distance riding I should get the biggest bike my body can accommodate so that I am as stretched out as much as possible.
When I test rode the bike it felt great, like the best I can remember feeling on a bike (it has been awhile) but I am concerned about the risk to my balls.
What do you guys think?
>>40931
I'm not sure you need a stretched out position for touring. What you need is a comfortable position. I'd go with my advice from earlier- if you're worried about your balls slapping on the top tube, don't get the bike.
Get a bike that you've read the manufacturer size guide for the frame. That's how you get a bike that's the right size for you.
I'm not sure you need a stretched out position for touring. What you need is a comfortable position. I'd go with my advice from earlier- if you're worried about your balls slapping on the top tube, don't get the bike.
Get a bike that you've read the manufacturer size guide for the frame. That's how you get a bike that's the right size for you.
>>40939
Yeah, according to the chart I am right at the edge of both.
I guess I will call to see if they can special order the smaller frame. As great as it felt to ride all it would take is a slip of the foot and I would be in major pain. Best not to risk it.
Yeah, according to the chart I am right at the edge of both.
I guess I will call to see if they can special order the smaller frame. As great as it felt to ride all it would take is a slip of the foot and I would be in major pain. Best not to risk it.
>>40942
Ordered the bike, have to wait till Friday for it to come.
Now to buy all the accessories I want on Amazon so they get here around the same time as the bike.
Really need a good pair of lights for this time of year.
Ordered the bike, have to wait till Friday for it to come.
Now to buy all the accessories I want on Amazon so they get here around the same time as the bike.
Really need a good pair of lights for this time of year.
>>40982
Lights are super important, but you can get some decent ones from china. Aliexpress for example. I recommend the V9C-400 for a front light, and as for back light just get a couple cheap 100 lumen ones. Why a couple? You should always take a spare rear light with you. There's always the possibility that a solder joint comes loose with the vibrations of the bike (happened to me) or you accidentally left it on in your pocket after taking it off your bike and the battery is dead. Either way, spares.
I've got like 4 100 lumen rear lights now (that work well), for the price of one 30 lumen piece of shit with a western brand stamped on it.
Similar with front lights, the V9C-400 is good. 400 Lumens is easily enough, and it has a decent mount.
Lights are super important, but you can get some decent ones from china. Aliexpress for example. I recommend the V9C-400 for a front light, and as for back light just get a couple cheap 100 lumen ones. Why a couple? You should always take a spare rear light with you. There's always the possibility that a solder joint comes loose with the vibrations of the bike (happened to me) or you accidentally left it on in your pocket after taking it off your bike and the battery is dead. Either way, spares.
I've got like 4 100 lumen rear lights now (that work well), for the price of one 30 lumen piece of shit with a western brand stamped on it.
Similar with front lights, the V9C-400 is good. 400 Lumens is easily enough, and it has a decent mount.
>>41014
I rather not wait 6 months (exaggerating for effect) for my order to arrive.
So I will stick with Amazon so that I can actually have it within the same time frame as my bike being ready.
I rather not wait 6 months (exaggerating for effect) for my order to arrive.
So I will stick with Amazon so that I can actually have it within the same time frame as my bike being ready.
>>40982
Well I got almost everything I needed and it will arrive about when the bike should arrive.
Only thing I didn't get is a lock. Which I will probably get from Walmart on the day I pick up my bike.
Thinking a small Ulock with a separate cable should be good enough for around here. Lock the frame and back tire to a post with the cable running through the lock, frame, and front tire to be separately locked with a pad lock.
I think such a set up should be good for the location I am in but I would have to upgrade if I go to a big city or area where bike theft is more prevalent.
I will also register my bike with the local sheriff department in town just in case.
Well I got almost everything I needed and it will arrive about when the bike should arrive.
Only thing I didn't get is a lock. Which I will probably get from Walmart on the day I pick up my bike.
Thinking a small Ulock with a separate cable should be good enough for around here. Lock the frame and back tire to a post with the cable running through the lock, frame, and front tire to be separately locked with a pad lock.
I think such a set up should be good for the location I am in but I would have to upgrade if I go to a big city or area where bike theft is more prevalent.
I will also register my bike with the local sheriff department in town just in case.
>>41087
I don't recommend cheaping out on a lock. I have a master lock one, and it's extremely well reviewed security wise. From a usability perspective, I like it. It's big enough to easily get around a frame and rear wheel with no problems, and the mechanism is smooth and easy to operated.
I'd get a cable as well to protect the front wheel. Alternatives are:
Taking off the front wheel and locking it up with the rear.
Getting special axle-locks or something to keep your front wheel from being taken off that way.
Up to you, or really, it's more up to the general level of 'urban youth' in the area you park your bike.
Little worried that you got a Walmart bike. They're not good.
I don't recommend cheaping out on a lock. I have a master lock one, and it's extremely well reviewed security wise. From a usability perspective, I like it. It's big enough to easily get around a frame and rear wheel with no problems, and the mechanism is smooth and easy to operated.
I'd get a cable as well to protect the front wheel. Alternatives are:
Taking off the front wheel and locking it up with the rear.
Getting special axle-locks or something to keep your front wheel from being taken off that way.
Up to you, or really, it's more up to the general level of 'urban youth' in the area you park your bike.
Little worried that you got a Walmart bike. They're not good.
>>41103
>I don't recommend cheaping out on a lock
>I have a master lock one
Lol
But on to the topic no I am not getting the bike from Walmart. I stated earlier that I am getting it from a bike shop but they had to order it because they only had the model I was interested in one size too big. They tried to talk me into the bigger size anyway but I decided not to risk my nuts.
Walmart just happens to have the lock that fits my use case for the best price.
If I was living in or traveling through a major city I would probably spend more and be more willing to lug something more heavy duty around. Or use two Ulocks or a thick chain instead of a cable. I live in the country and occasionally go to a very small quite city close by. It is not unusual to see people not locking up their bikes at all. Bike theft is minimal but I figured better safe than sorry and getting something more secure then about 90% of what is in the area. When people who do lock up their bikes most use those shitty thin cable locks that can be snipped by bolt cutters instantly. Even people with really fucking expensive bikes that cost the price of a really nice used sports car or work truck use thin cable locks around here. It is completely mad to me to not lock something that nice up proper but whatever. Rich people going to rich.
Anyway, I would suggest you look up what locksmiths have to say about master lock. You will probably be surprised.
>I don't recommend cheaping out on a lock
>I have a master lock one
Lol
But on to the topic no I am not getting the bike from Walmart. I stated earlier that I am getting it from a bike shop but they had to order it because they only had the model I was interested in one size too big. They tried to talk me into the bigger size anyway but I decided not to risk my nuts.
Walmart just happens to have the lock that fits my use case for the best price.
If I was living in or traveling through a major city I would probably spend more and be more willing to lug something more heavy duty around. Or use two Ulocks or a thick chain instead of a cable. I live in the country and occasionally go to a very small quite city close by. It is not unusual to see people not locking up their bikes at all. Bike theft is minimal but I figured better safe than sorry and getting something more secure then about 90% of what is in the area. When people who do lock up their bikes most use those shitty thin cable locks that can be snipped by bolt cutters instantly. Even people with really fucking expensive bikes that cost the price of a really nice used sports car or work truck use thin cable locks around here. It is completely mad to me to not lock something that nice up proper but whatever. Rich people going to rich.
Anyway, I would suggest you look up what locksmiths have to say about master lock. You will probably be surprised.
>>41113
Well with the lock I have it was rated gold. I am making the assumption that they don't rate bad locks highly.
Well with the lock I have it was rated gold. I am making the assumption that they don't rate bad locks highly.
>>41125
Master Lock has a really bad habit of leaving in flaws in their lock and cylinder design that allows for extremely easy picking, shimming, and otherwise voiding the lock without even having to destroy the lock.
I'm a rank amateur and even I can get through almost anything with Master locks brand on it in less than a few minutes taking my time.
Again look up videos of how effortlessly actual locksmiths get through Master locks.
I only buy them to practice lock picking and other exploits on. Yes most of their products can take a beating but with so many other flaws and vulnerabilities I would never actually use it to lock something I actually cared about up.
I don't know how the rate lock security in whatever country, but if master lock has a gold seal then their test were probably related to to brute force destruction testing.
Master Lock has a really bad habit of leaving in flaws in their lock and cylinder design that allows for extremely easy picking, shimming, and otherwise voiding the lock without even having to destroy the lock.
I'm a rank amateur and even I can get through almost anything with Master locks brand on it in less than a few minutes taking my time.
Again look up videos of how effortlessly actual locksmiths get through Master locks.
I only buy them to practice lock picking and other exploits on. Yes most of their products can take a beating but with so many other flaws and vulnerabilities I would never actually use it to lock something I actually cared about up.
I don't know how the rate lock security in whatever country, but if master lock has a gold seal then their test were probably related to to brute force destruction testing.
>>41132
The model I've got is the Street Fortum and it doesn't have any of the flaws that you're talking about. I tried to look up what the testing involved, but the security testing company has a very unuseful website. However, the lock is a different type than the ones that are in the youtube videos so it's fine.
Additionally, it's extremely highly rated everywhere and typically this doesn't happen if it's got design flaws.
The model I've got is the Street Fortum and it doesn't have any of the flaws that you're talking about. I tried to look up what the testing involved, but the security testing company has a very unuseful website. However, the lock is a different type than the ones that are in the youtube videos so it's fine.
Additionally, it's extremely highly rated everywhere and typically this doesn't happen if it's got design flaws.
Got my new bike today. First thing I did is ride around 17 miles from the city to the small town I stay near.
It felt great riding it. My butt is a little sore and my shoulders hurt from the backpack filled with groceries (I will attach a rack I have at home) but otherwise I feel like I could do another 10 miles if I needed to. I will see how my legs feel tomorrow. If I still feel good then I will go for a ride along a bike trail that is about 15 miles long.
I used to hate cycling as a kid. What a huge difference having the right bike makes.
It felt great riding it. My butt is a little sore and my shoulders hurt from the backpack filled with groceries (I will attach a rack I have at home) but otherwise I feel like I could do another 10 miles if I needed to. I will see how my legs feel tomorrow. If I still feel good then I will go for a ride along a bike trail that is about 15 miles long.
I used to hate cycling as a kid. What a huge difference having the right bike makes.
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I like to work on old broken bikes, but this can't get very expensive if you have constantly to buy new parts and special tools.
anyone has some guide or vid that teaches how to fix the breaks on a bike?
my bike has the breaks coming loose and I have no Idea of how to do the do, now
my bike has the breaks coming loose and I have no Idea of how to do the do, now
>>41246
I was about to Google it/look on YouTube but then I wondered why the hell you didn't just do that yourself in the first place.
If you want to maintain and repair your bike yourself then you should be prepared to look shit up yourself as well.
I was about to Google it/look on YouTube but then I wondered why the hell you didn't just do that yourself in the first place.
If you want to maintain and repair your bike yourself then you should be prepared to look shit up yourself as well.
I have to train my endurance.
There are a bunch of cool places I would like to bike to and explore. I know I could get there and do a bit of riding there but at my current level I am not so sure I would be able to make it back.
How should I train so I can do 40+ miles without problem?
There are a bunch of cool places I would like to bike to and explore. I know I could get there and do a bit of riding there but at my current level I am not so sure I would be able to make it back.
How should I train so I can do 40+ miles without problem?
>>41294
Useful but not needed. Personally I prefer not having something to look down at. Roads typically have important things on them for someone moving fast.
Useful but not needed. Personally I prefer not having something to look down at. Roads typically have important things on them for someone moving fast.
>>41297
Just gradually increase the distance, ride after ride. The easiest way to do this is to pick a route and then just double back when you've reached half your target distance. This also allows you to approach hills from both directions, which is nice.
Just gradually increase the distance, ride after ride. The easiest way to do this is to pick a route and then just double back when you've reached half your target distance. This also allows you to approach hills from both directions, which is nice.
One of my tubes died.
Question can I use a 27" x 1¼ in a rim/tire made for 700c x 35?
My only other option is to try and put a tube with Presta valves in Schrader drilled rims (I don't have a adapter and would have to wait for a few weeks to have one delivered so I don't like this option)
Question can I use a 27" x 1¼ in a rim/tire made for 700c x 35?
My only other option is to try and put a tube with Presta valves in Schrader drilled rims (I don't have a adapter and would have to wait for a few weeks to have one delivered so I don't like this option)
>>41452
Well I put on the 27" anyway and it seems fine but I won't know for sure until I take it out for a ride tomorrow.
This is actually my first time changing a bike tube on my own. Broke one of the tire levers and put the tire on backwards so the tread is facing the wrong way, but it was such a pain in the ass getting the tire seated in the first place that I am just going to leave it for the time being. The tread is pretty minimal so it probably makes very little difference.
I will say that those mini frame pump things are a work out to use and probably not practical once you hit 60 psi. Getting them pumped to 80 was hell.
Will get a proper stand up pump soon. Much easier to use at higher psi. Probably faster too.
Well I put on the 27" anyway and it seems fine but I won't know for sure until I take it out for a ride tomorrow.
This is actually my first time changing a bike tube on my own. Broke one of the tire levers and put the tire on backwards so the tread is facing the wrong way, but it was such a pain in the ass getting the tire seated in the first place that I am just going to leave it for the time being. The tread is pretty minimal so it probably makes very little difference.
I will say that those mini frame pump things are a work out to use and probably not practical once you hit 60 psi. Getting them pumped to 80 was hell.
Will get a proper stand up pump soon. Much easier to use at higher psi. Probably faster too.
>>41458
Tubes stretch a lot, it doesn't really matter.
However, get new levers and redo the tire. The way to do it is to have it so once you've got the tire almost on, you pop the bead of the tire on the other side of the wheel into the middle of the rim while putting some tension on it. This should force the bead into the little dip in the centre of the rim, allowing you enough slack at the other end to pop the bead over the edge and then be done. It isn't easy much of the time, but it's doable.
My technique is to get the bead fairly tight in the 'almost on' position, and then use tire levers on the other side to push the bead down into the dip and then move the levers around to the almost on section, pushing the bead into the dip along the whole tire. Like two levers at the back of the wheel, then pull them forwards around the wheel's rim to try and push the tire into the dip.
This is hard with new tires since they splay outwards.
Also as for stand pump- get one. Doesn't have to be an expensive one, those little hand pumps you should reserve for emergencies only.
Tubes stretch a lot, it doesn't really matter.
However, get new levers and redo the tire. The way to do it is to have it so once you've got the tire almost on, you pop the bead of the tire on the other side of the wheel into the middle of the rim while putting some tension on it. This should force the bead into the little dip in the centre of the rim, allowing you enough slack at the other end to pop the bead over the edge and then be done. It isn't easy much of the time, but it's doable.
My technique is to get the bead fairly tight in the 'almost on' position, and then use tire levers on the other side to push the bead down into the dip and then move the levers around to the almost on section, pushing the bead into the dip along the whole tire. Like two levers at the back of the wheel, then pull them forwards around the wheel's rim to try and push the tire into the dip.
This is hard with new tires since they splay outwards.
Also as for stand pump- get one. Doesn't have to be an expensive one, those little hand pumps you should reserve for emergencies only.
Are fatbikes a meme? What should I choose if I want something easy to maintain, able to carry a lot of luggage and affordable?
>>41464
Fat biked are good for cruising on stuff like snow and sand but they are often very heavy bikes so not usually great for commuting or hills.
Fat biked are good for cruising on stuff like snow and sand but they are often very heavy bikes so not usually great for commuting or hills.
>>41464
Fatbikes are completely a meme. Those tires are VERY heavy. Great for very loose surfaces like desert sand though. If you don't do much cycling through deserts then you shouldn't consider one.
Generally anything that holds panniers will do. There is something about pricing of bikes- too cheap and you get bikes that are much harder to maintain since they're designed to be disposable bikes. You need to get a real bike if you want it to last with good maintenance. Around $400 is where bikes are real bikes. Not a massive amount of money. The used market can get you some nice bargins, but they will require some work most of the time. If you live in the EU, decathlon make some high quality low price bikes.
When it comes to maintenance- regular maintenance is easy maintenance. Have a regular schedule of cleaning too, since it's a good chance to check brakes, chain, and such. Drivetrain should be cleaned based on mileage which for me is usually once every two weeks. A chance to check small issues too- like an unusual noise that should be checked out. A time to have a quick visual inspection is very valuable. Issues are easier to fix the earlier they are fixed.
You can get pretty much anything, so try and look for something that you think you will enjoy riding. I like drop bars so I ride drop bars. Give them a shot, they're great. The STI shifters are good, I very much enjoy clean easy shifting.
As for maintenance, I recommend RJ the bike guy on youtube. Pretty low key dude, with videos where he goes through the important things, like indexing, cabling, etc on regular bikes. Definitely read on how to do things.
Bikes are pretty easy machines once you get the basics.
Fatbikes are completely a meme. Those tires are VERY heavy. Great for very loose surfaces like desert sand though. If you don't do much cycling through deserts then you shouldn't consider one.
Generally anything that holds panniers will do. There is something about pricing of bikes- too cheap and you get bikes that are much harder to maintain since they're designed to be disposable bikes. You need to get a real bike if you want it to last with good maintenance. Around $400 is where bikes are real bikes. Not a massive amount of money. The used market can get you some nice bargins, but they will require some work most of the time. If you live in the EU, decathlon make some high quality low price bikes.
When it comes to maintenance- regular maintenance is easy maintenance. Have a regular schedule of cleaning too, since it's a good chance to check brakes, chain, and such. Drivetrain should be cleaned based on mileage which for me is usually once every two weeks. A chance to check small issues too- like an unusual noise that should be checked out. A time to have a quick visual inspection is very valuable. Issues are easier to fix the earlier they are fixed.
You can get pretty much anything, so try and look for something that you think you will enjoy riding. I like drop bars so I ride drop bars. Give them a shot, they're great. The STI shifters are good, I very much enjoy clean easy shifting.
As for maintenance, I recommend RJ the bike guy on youtube. Pretty low key dude, with videos where he goes through the important things, like indexing, cabling, etc on regular bikes. Definitely read on how to do things.
Bikes are pretty easy machines once you get the basics.
>>41458
After a short test ride everything feels/sounds fine so I guess it was a success.
I sprung for the extra thick tube just in case. Hopefully it will hold up longer then the other one.
After a short test ride everything feels/sounds fine so I guess it was a success.
I sprung for the extra thick tube just in case. Hopefully it will hold up longer then the other one.
>>41465
When I compared the weight of my "okay tier" bike with some "good tier" fatbikes, the weight was more, or less, the same.
Cruising is something I prefer over climbing or downhill, but there are plenty hills here so maybe I'll just get a better MTB.
When I compared the weight of my "okay tier" bike with some "good tier" fatbikes, the weight was more, or less, the same.
Cruising is something I prefer over climbing or downhill, but there are plenty hills here so maybe I'll just get a better MTB.
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I'd love nothing more than to get me a decent rig and camping set up I can take with me on a bike, trick it out with reinforced gear, and get one of these build your own motorized cycle kits and just say "fuck you" to all insurance laws and hit the old highways with about 10 grand in my bank.
Was in the bike shop today just asking about stuff. Dude was surprised by how much and how far I ride the thing already but told me I will probably hit a medphoracal wall at around 50 miles. He said once I get to that point I really should consider coming in to get some of those super tight bike shorts. Told me it is like night and day in comfort on long rides.
It has been less then a month. I know I have been riding alot but I just can't see myself wearing short shorts like that in public.
It has been less then a month. I know I have been riding alot but I just can't see myself wearing short shorts like that in public.
>>41515
The shorts have padding in the ass region. There's a reason everyone wears them. If you want to maintain your dignity, get some of those shorts and then stick loose shorts over it, or whatever. That way you get the comfort without looking like a stripper.
Good luck on your rides mate.
The shorts have padding in the ass region. There's a reason everyone wears them. If you want to maintain your dignity, get some of those shorts and then stick loose shorts over it, or whatever. That way you get the comfort without looking like a stripper.
Good luck on your rides mate.
I kinda want to name my bike, but at the same time it feels retarded to humanize a hunk of metal with a name.
>>41518
The same could be said about naming planets or mountains.
Names are just a way to help you assosciate certain memories with certain objects. Naming your bike may help to record good or bad times had with it.
Don't name it Epona you'll get run over
The same could be said about naming planets or mountains.
Names are just a way to help you assosciate certain memories with certain objects. Naming your bike may help to record good or bad times had with it.
Don't name it Epona you'll get run over
I got called a pussy for riding my bike by a guy with ear spacers sitting in the passenger seat of his wife's sedan. Normies are the best lmao
How is winter treating everyone? My $200 mountain bike is holding up fine. The only problem I have is when a warm spike thaws things down and water gets inside my gear indicators, which freeze up when the temperature drops back down. Other than that I really enjoy riding in the snow. I find it fun having to fight the front wheel's sliding.
Is there a chemical difference between Bicycle WD-40 and regular WD-40? I see little jars of the bicycle stuff for twice as much as a can. I'd like something thicker because the regular stuff evaporates too fast but something tells me the bicycle title is just a marketing gimmick. Can anyone recommend a decent thick grease that isn't so heavy as to fly off of the chain when pedaling fast?
How is winter treating everyone? My $200 mountain bike is holding up fine. The only problem I have is when a warm spike thaws things down and water gets inside my gear indicators, which freeze up when the temperature drops back down. Other than that I really enjoy riding in the snow. I find it fun having to fight the front wheel's sliding.
Is there a chemical difference between Bicycle WD-40 and regular WD-40? I see little jars of the bicycle stuff for twice as much as a can. I'd like something thicker because the regular stuff evaporates too fast but something tells me the bicycle title is just a marketing gimmick. Can anyone recommend a decent thick grease that isn't so heavy as to fly off of the chain when pedaling fast?
I have been looking at airless tires lately.
Not the solid rubber ones but the newer airless tires like Tannus and Nimbus tire.
Anyone have any experience with them?
Thoughts?
Not the solid rubber ones but the newer airless tires like Tannus and Nimbus tire.
Anyone have any experience with them?
Thoughts?
>>41579
Which bike WD-40? They have a pretty large product range made for bikes.
What are you going to be using it for?
If you mean putting just normal WD-40 on your chain then no, that is a bad idea. It will just gunk up your chain and spin out of the areas that need it.
Which bike WD-40? They have a pretty large product range made for bikes.
What are you going to be using it for?
If you mean putting just normal WD-40 on your chain then no, that is a bad idea. It will just gunk up your chain and spin out of the areas that need it.
>>41579
Regular WD40 is for removing lubricants, water and grease. It leaves a light oil to protect the metal parts from corrosion, ready to add a suitable lubricant.
Get bike lubricant. There's wet and dry (the labels refer to riding conditions. Wet lubes are heavier and water repellent, while dry lubes are lighter and pick up less grime and dirt.) I just got some muk-off wet lube for this winter, it cost me like $6 and this thing is going to last years. Only need a tiny amount on each chainlink.
>>41599
Generally, no. If punctures are a problem for you, there are two things to try first. One is thicker puncture proof tires. Marathons are the usual example here. If this doesn't work, consider changing where you ride from the road outside the goathead farm and caltrop factory.
Then you try tubeless. This is usually a hefty investment since you will need to replace your wheels too, so that they're tubeless compatible. Then you gotta check that your tires are a good fit for the rims you want and also tubeless. Then you probably need a special high-capacity floor pump to get the tire inflated properly. Then you need to fill the tire with latex self-sealant goo before pumping it up.
You do all this though and you can ride straight through the goathead and caltrop factory road and not give a shit. Pin punctures seal themselves up, without much loss of pressure. No flats. More or less ever. One exception is large cuts caused by glass shards. Tubeless can't solve that. But marathons tend to not give a shit about glass anyway.
Regular WD40 is for removing lubricants, water and grease. It leaves a light oil to protect the metal parts from corrosion, ready to add a suitable lubricant.
Get bike lubricant. There's wet and dry (the labels refer to riding conditions. Wet lubes are heavier and water repellent, while dry lubes are lighter and pick up less grime and dirt.) I just got some muk-off wet lube for this winter, it cost me like $6 and this thing is going to last years. Only need a tiny amount on each chainlink.
>>41599
Generally, no. If punctures are a problem for you, there are two things to try first. One is thicker puncture proof tires. Marathons are the usual example here. If this doesn't work, consider changing where you ride from the road outside the goathead farm and caltrop factory.
Then you try tubeless. This is usually a hefty investment since you will need to replace your wheels too, so that they're tubeless compatible. Then you gotta check that your tires are a good fit for the rims you want and also tubeless. Then you probably need a special high-capacity floor pump to get the tire inflated properly. Then you need to fill the tire with latex self-sealant goo before pumping it up.
You do all this though and you can ride straight through the goathead and caltrop factory road and not give a shit. Pin punctures seal themselves up, without much loss of pressure. No flats. More or less ever. One exception is large cuts caused by glass shards. Tubeless can't solve that. But marathons tend to not give a shit about glass anyway.
>>41613
>>41599
Another cheap fix is to get really use a puncture guard strip in the wheel, thick tubes, then put "slime" (the puncture repair and prevention stuff) preemptively in those thick tubes.
It is heavier then some ways of avoiding punctures but it is pretty cheap and easy to do. Plus unlike airless tires you still get the comfyness of pneumatic tires. Most reviews of most airless tires including Tannus is that they are pretty damn harsh. Also $80+ dollars a tire is pretty pricey for something you don't even know if you will like.
Try slimming your tubes and adding in a anti-puncture liner to your tire first. That and look where you are going and keep your tires the right pressure to avoid punctures in the first place.
>>41599
Another cheap fix is to get really use a puncture guard strip in the wheel, thick tubes, then put "slime" (the puncture repair and prevention stuff) preemptively in those thick tubes.
It is heavier then some ways of avoiding punctures but it is pretty cheap and easy to do. Plus unlike airless tires you still get the comfyness of pneumatic tires. Most reviews of most airless tires including Tannus is that they are pretty damn harsh. Also $80+ dollars a tire is pretty pricey for something you don't even know if you will like.
Try slimming your tubes and adding in a anti-puncture liner to your tire first. That and look where you are going and keep your tires the right pressure to avoid punctures in the first place.
>>41644
Don't use slime, it goes bad after awhile and starts to eat at or clump up in the inner tube.
Use high quality tubeless sealant in a tube. You can also use the kind of puncture sealant that is used for cars and shit. I have had pretty good luck with puncturesafe but if you can get your hands on some Ultraseal then a few ounces will make your tires be able to take whatever you can throw at them as far as punctures. Too bad it is mainly sold in gallon jugs, which is way too much for even a fleet of bikes.
Don't use slime, it goes bad after awhile and starts to eat at or clump up in the inner tube.
Use high quality tubeless sealant in a tube. You can also use the kind of puncture sealant that is used for cars and shit. I have had pretty good luck with puncturesafe but if you can get your hands on some Ultraseal then a few ounces will make your tires be able to take whatever you can throw at them as far as punctures. Too bad it is mainly sold in gallon jugs, which is way too much for even a fleet of bikes.
Well i just finished doing my first 40 miles in one trip and my everything is tired.
I think my butt is finally getting used to the saddle, plus I think the corn starch I applied to my taint helped too.
I went pretty easy on the first half then really pushed my self on the way back.
I found this skin tight stretchy athletic shirt at the thrift store for like 50¢. Really felt the difference in wind resistance. It may show off my man-tits but it is better then getting beat up by the wind.
I still have a long way to go but it is nice to see such big distance gains in my first month of really getting into this hobby.
I think my butt is finally getting used to the saddle, plus I think the corn starch I applied to my taint helped too.
I went pretty easy on the first half then really pushed my self on the way back.
I found this skin tight stretchy athletic shirt at the thrift store for like 50¢. Really felt the difference in wind resistance. It may show off my man-tits but it is better then getting beat up by the wind.
I still have a long way to go but it is nice to see such big distance gains in my first month of really getting into this hobby.
I bought a Merida Crossway 10 for my first bike since I was like 12 a few weeks ago and think I fucked up getting a hybrid. I told the guy at the store I wouldn't ride far but after a few days of having it started doing 20km rides daily and I think I would prefer a road bike. I paid $500 for it.
Any suggestions for a good roadbike for around 1000-1500?
Any suggestions for a good roadbike for around 1000-1500?
>>41683
It'd be cheaper to stick road bars on your hybrid. In principle it's not too difficult. You'll need shifters that have the same pull ratios as your derailleurs, but apart from that it's basically recabling.
It's some work but it'll save you from having to buy an entirely new bike.
It'd be cheaper to stick road bars on your hybrid. In principle it's not too difficult. You'll need shifters that have the same pull ratios as your derailleurs, but apart from that it's basically recabling.
It's some work but it'll save you from having to buy an entirely new bike.
>>41685
Although that said, if you have the money to upgrade to a road bike, totally do. I'd say that upgrading the entire package is worth it. But I mean not everyone has dosh lying around.
As for good roadbikes.. It's difficult to go wrong at that price range.
Frame with good warranty + solid groupset is the rule. you could check out bike reviews like the ones from road.cc. Actually, I'd recommend road.cc's best bike lists. They're good since they're opinions from guys who've actually ridden them along with hundreds of others.
Other general recommendations include avoiding disc brakes at that price. They'd usually eat into the cost of the groupset. they're good, but they're not as good as nicer shifters, for example.
Although that said, if you have the money to upgrade to a road bike, totally do. I'd say that upgrading the entire package is worth it. But I mean not everyone has dosh lying around.
As for good roadbikes.. It's difficult to go wrong at that price range.
Frame with good warranty + solid groupset is the rule. you could check out bike reviews like the ones from road.cc. Actually, I'd recommend road.cc's best bike lists. They're good since they're opinions from guys who've actually ridden them along with hundreds of others.
Other general recommendations include avoiding disc brakes at that price. They'd usually eat into the cost of the groupset. they're good, but they're not as good as nicer shifters, for example.
What kind of pants or saddle do you use to avoid crushing the junk? I feel pretty numb and tingly after just 10 kms of riding, although I only notice it after getting off the saddle. My bikes a pretty cheap road bike with narrow saddle.
>>41698
First try adjustments. Your saddle should be at the right height and level. You could have it pointing down forwards a few degrees but I do not like this as it makes it hard to stay on the bike when braking.
Second try dealing with it. Chances are your ass will harden over time and it'll stop happening.
Third; Don't get super padded saddles. Seriously, the mor padding means the more contact area with the butt and the more overall area you crush, which is bad for blood flow in the area.
fourth, pedal harder. The more force you stick on the pedals, the less goes on your ass.
First try adjustments. Your saddle should be at the right height and level. You could have it pointing down forwards a few degrees but I do not like this as it makes it hard to stay on the bike when braking.
Second try dealing with it. Chances are your ass will harden over time and it'll stop happening.
Third; Don't get super padded saddles. Seriously, the mor padding means the more contact area with the butt and the more overall area you crush, which is bad for blood flow in the area.
fourth, pedal harder. The more force you stick on the pedals, the less goes on your ass.
I too have a hybrid bike with flat bars and ended up being way more into cycling then I thought and kind of want the option of a more aerodynamic and aggressive riding position.
I have taken to bending over and using my elbows to steer while having my hands just sort of draped over the middle when I am on long straight aways. I don't know about fully replacing the handle bars but it would be great to have some sort of add on that I could grab on in that position for better safety and control.
I have taken to bending over and using my elbows to steer while having my hands just sort of draped over the middle when I am on long straight aways. I don't know about fully replacing the handle bars but it would be great to have some sort of add on that I could grab on in that position for better safety and control.
>>42028
I had to look up what it even is.
Seems kind of dumb and attention whorish but if you enjoy it then whatever. Do your thing.
I had to look up what it even is.
Seems kind of dumb and attention whorish but if you enjoy it then whatever. Do your thing.
So…
Can you use 3in1/house oil/WD40 as a degreaser to clean the chain?
If not then I will get the cheapest bike degreaser and lube combo pack but if I can use it then I can instead get the good lube that best fits my riding conditions.
Can you use 3in1/house oil/WD40 as a degreaser to clean the chain?
If not then I will get the cheapest bike degreaser and lube combo pack but if I can use it then I can instead get the good lube that best fits my riding conditions.
>>42028
Yes, we all ride bikes that you literally can't get on to by yourself and make you look like a giant attention whore because that's a totally wizardly thing to do.
Yes, we all ride bikes that you literally can't get on to by yourself and make you look like a giant attention whore because that's a totally wizardly thing to do.
>>42032
I'd recommend replacing the bars. You could chance some cheap carbon handlebars from china- So long as they're well branded (aliexpress) they'll be fine and not murder you. Else some alu ones will do just great. Check your bar retainer, if it's one of those clamp style things then replacement will be easy.
The most expensive part about changing is changing the shifters. STI lever shifters aren't particularly cheap. You can get some cheap ones though- I think there are microNEW shifters that are cheap chinese ones that do the job. They're microshift clones. I'm currently using real microshift R8s and they'll be good value for you. In 'shimano compatible land' which includes shimano, microshift, etc (NOT CAMPAGNOLO) stuff is all compatible with each other so long as it matches amount of gears. 8 speed shifter will work with any 8 speed dérailleur so long sa they're both shimano compatible. The reason I mention microNEW is because you can get 8 speed shifters for cheap, and I read a post on /n/ about someone using them and being happy with them. Match 9 to 9 and 8 to 8 etc and it'll work.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-MicroNEW-SB-R582-2X8S-3X8S-Shifters-Double-Chain-Derailleur-STI-Shift-Lever-Road-Bike-Bicycle/32845878388.html
Not expensive for shifters.
Alternatively: Shimano claris, or actual microshift R8s. Chinese knockoffs will be okay I think.
Same for front derailleur, 2 speed or 3 speed.
What you will need:
Handlebars (go for default sizes, widths, etc, unless you think you have really wide or thin shoulders)
Cables + housings. Get some proper cable snippers so you get clean cuts on the housings. Ferrules and cable ends will come if you get a kit.
You'll need 4 new cables. Two brakes, two gear changers.
New shifters. I discussed these earlier.
Bar tape. Cheap stuff from ali will do.
I think that's it. Everything else will be fine.
Oh right, you might want a new stem too. Not needed to try out, but if you're having problems with comfort down the road it might be worth trying adjusting the reach or height.
You need to recable because it's changing the cable lengths when you change bar types. The most expensive part will be the shifters, and probably your time. Installation is not difficult, but it'll take time if you've never done it before.
I heavily recommend youtube videos. RJ the bike guy has a great video that goes through EVERYTHING you need to convert flats to drops (and the reverse too), so check that out for guidance on what to do.
Generally bike work only gets hard when you touch the bottom bracket or take apart hubs or steering columns. Everything else is easy.
>>42101
You can. WD40 is good for removing grease, oils, and water. My cleaning cycle is this:
1. Chain scrubber + degreaser. Scrub until shiny. Then dry with some paper towel.
2. Quick spray of WD40 to push the water out. Then wipe with paper towel.
3. Leave for 30 minutes or so if you can, but no biggie if you can't- just towel it some more. Generally leave the WD40 to evaporate some. Not a big deal if you can't though.
4. Lubricate. I put a small amount on each link then rotate for a minute or so to work it in. Can use a paper towel here to remove excess.
The wd40 is used to speed up the process, really. But you can use it by itself, but I'd HEAVILY recommend a chain scrubber just to get 95% of the gunk off first.
As for lubricant, bike specific lubes aren't expensive, and they come in two main types: Wet and Dry. Wet for wet weather, dry for dry. Wet lasts longer and is water resistant. Dry is a lighter lube that makes chains roll slightly easier. If you only want to get one lubricant, get wet.
I'd recommend replacing the bars. You could chance some cheap carbon handlebars from china- So long as they're well branded (aliexpress) they'll be fine and not murder you. Else some alu ones will do just great. Check your bar retainer, if it's one of those clamp style things then replacement will be easy.
The most expensive part about changing is changing the shifters. STI lever shifters aren't particularly cheap. You can get some cheap ones though- I think there are microNEW shifters that are cheap chinese ones that do the job. They're microshift clones. I'm currently using real microshift R8s and they'll be good value for you. In 'shimano compatible land' which includes shimano, microshift, etc (NOT CAMPAGNOLO) stuff is all compatible with each other so long as it matches amount of gears. 8 speed shifter will work with any 8 speed dérailleur so long sa they're both shimano compatible. The reason I mention microNEW is because you can get 8 speed shifters for cheap, and I read a post on /n/ about someone using them and being happy with them. Match 9 to 9 and 8 to 8 etc and it'll work.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-MicroNEW-SB-R582-2X8S-3X8S-Shifters-Double-Chain-Derailleur-STI-Shift-Lever-Road-Bike-Bicycle/32845878388.html
Not expensive for shifters.
Alternatively: Shimano claris, or actual microshift R8s. Chinese knockoffs will be okay I think.
Same for front derailleur, 2 speed or 3 speed.
What you will need:
Handlebars (go for default sizes, widths, etc, unless you think you have really wide or thin shoulders)
Cables + housings. Get some proper cable snippers so you get clean cuts on the housings. Ferrules and cable ends will come if you get a kit.
You'll need 4 new cables. Two brakes, two gear changers.
New shifters. I discussed these earlier.
Bar tape. Cheap stuff from ali will do.
I think that's it. Everything else will be fine.
Oh right, you might want a new stem too. Not needed to try out, but if you're having problems with comfort down the road it might be worth trying adjusting the reach or height.
You need to recable because it's changing the cable lengths when you change bar types. The most expensive part will be the shifters, and probably your time. Installation is not difficult, but it'll take time if you've never done it before.
I heavily recommend youtube videos. RJ the bike guy has a great video that goes through EVERYTHING you need to convert flats to drops (and the reverse too), so check that out for guidance on what to do.
Generally bike work only gets hard when you touch the bottom bracket or take apart hubs or steering columns. Everything else is easy.
>>42101
You can. WD40 is good for removing grease, oils, and water. My cleaning cycle is this:
1. Chain scrubber + degreaser. Scrub until shiny. Then dry with some paper towel.
2. Quick spray of WD40 to push the water out. Then wipe with paper towel.
3. Leave for 30 minutes or so if you can, but no biggie if you can't- just towel it some more. Generally leave the WD40 to evaporate some. Not a big deal if you can't though.
4. Lubricate. I put a small amount on each link then rotate for a minute or so to work it in. Can use a paper towel here to remove excess.
The wd40 is used to speed up the process, really. But you can use it by itself, but I'd HEAVILY recommend a chain scrubber just to get 95% of the gunk off first.
As for lubricant, bike specific lubes aren't expensive, and they come in two main types: Wet and Dry. Wet for wet weather, dry for dry. Wet lasts longer and is water resistant. Dry is a lighter lube that makes chains roll slightly easier. If you only want to get one lubricant, get wet.
so can we talk about common bicycles in here? or is it all just the usual hoity toity shit and snobbery?
>>42127
Last bike snob we had got the slaps. I ride a $90 walmart mountain bike and I'm sure I enjoy it as much as I'd enjoy a $1,500 graphite tourer.
Last bike snob we had got the slaps. I ride a $90 walmart mountain bike and I'm sure I enjoy it as much as I'd enjoy a $1,500 graphite tourer.
>>42128
I think it's worth investing in a nicer bike, even if by nicer bike I mean ~$400-500. Above that you just go faster.
I think it's worth investing in a nicer bike, even if by nicer bike I mean ~$400-500. Above that you just go faster.
>>42117
Noob question but how in the world can you tell what gear you are in with those kind of shifters?
Noob question but how in the world can you tell what gear you are in with those kind of shifters?
>>42152
You get the feel for it. You can tell when you're on the highest or lowest gear since you'll get a loose press from the shifter. But really, you don't really need to know what gear you're in apart from that.
Shift down when pedalling too fast, shift up when pedalling too slowly. Use the road ahead to gauge which chainring to be in, and when shifting chainrings, shift up or down a gear on the back as well. Smaller chainring, larger rear gear, and vis versa.
The feel of the shifters is really good. Shifting is a button press, or lever push.
You get the feel for it. You can tell when you're on the highest or lowest gear since you'll get a loose press from the shifter. But really, you don't really need to know what gear you're in apart from that.
Shift down when pedalling too fast, shift up when pedalling too slowly. Use the road ahead to gauge which chainring to be in, and when shifting chainrings, shift up or down a gear on the back as well. Smaller chainring, larger rear gear, and vis versa.
The feel of the shifters is really good. Shifting is a button press, or lever push.
>>42154
But I spend most of my time in the mid gears and don't like cross chaining.
I guess I can practice by riding more at night.
But I spend most of my time in the mid gears and don't like cross chaining.
I guess I can practice by riding more at night.
>>42155
You really do just get the feel for it. Although I have an advantage since I get derailleur rub when my chain gets less straight, so I can hear my chain when I'm cross chaining.
You really do just get the feel for it. Although I have an advantage since I get derailleur rub when my chain gets less straight, so I can hear my chain when I'm cross chaining.
>>40536
What kind of power plant will you need for a bike chassis like that? Batteries are expensive, dangerous, wear down, and don’t last long.
What kind of power plant will you need for a bike chassis like that? Batteries are expensive, dangerous, wear down, and don’t last long.
>>42157
Most of it is power efficient LED.
The only thing that really seems to eat up a lot of juice is the headlight, which gets it own external rechargeable power pack.
Maybe one day I will learn a bit about electronics and wire up a whole system to run off one centralized power source but for now each set of lights has its own batteries and last long enough for it not to be too inconvenient.
Most of it is power efficient LED.
The only thing that really seems to eat up a lot of juice is the headlight, which gets it own external rechargeable power pack.
Maybe one day I will learn a bit about electronics and wire up a whole system to run off one centralized power source but for now each set of lights has its own batteries and last long enough for it not to be too inconvenient.
so i just started biking around a few months ago, but sadly i live in a city. i dont know how you guys deal with angry or drunk normalfag fucking scum either yelling at you or blowing the horn at you even though you are following all laws and doing nothing wrong. it happens to me more than i can stand, so im going back to staring at my wall all day. i hope i can find a way to move
>>42232
Just ignore them. They're trying to bully you off the road so they don't have to deal with other road users.
Just ignore them. They're trying to bully you off the road so they don't have to deal with other road users.
>>42232
Ignore
Or if I am feeling cheeky I will ring my little bell and put on a big dumb smile or wave.
Nothing pisses off yet disarms angry motorist more then showing them you are happy and having such a good time they can't bring you down to their level. That they can't bring you down into their world of stress and rage.
Ignore
Or if I am feeling cheeky I will ring my little bell and put on a big dumb smile or wave.
Nothing pisses off yet disarms angry motorist more then showing them you are happy and having such a good time they can't bring you down to their level. That they can't bring you down into their world of stress and rage.
I regularly commute 20+ miles in the dark so I get flats alot.
It is starting to really get on my nerves. I have tried option of trying to prevent punctures but so far none have worked. I have also tried patches and fix-a-flat but they only seem to work for short amounts of time/ the last few miles. I am considering my options.
Cheapest option is to buy tubes in bulk and get good at dealing it. The next option is to buy new rims and tires and try going tubeless. I don't really want to because it seems like a pain in the ass to learn and set up, and getting done at the shop is a total rip off (they want almost as much as my bike cost to do the full conversion).
The riskiest option is to try one of the airless tire or tube options that are currently on the market. I say riskiest because the reviews seem mixed with some loving the and saying they ride just like normal and others saying they are butt devastatingly hard. They are also quite expensive for good ones,which means if I get them and hate them I am out quite a bit of money. But if they work for me then I will never have to worry about my tires until the spokes break or the tread is totally worn down smooth.
So thoughts about this subject or advice.
It is starting to really get on my nerves. I have tried option of trying to prevent punctures but so far none have worked. I have also tried patches and fix-a-flat but they only seem to work for short amounts of time/ the last few miles. I am considering my options.
Cheapest option is to buy tubes in bulk and get good at dealing it. The next option is to buy new rims and tires and try going tubeless. I don't really want to because it seems like a pain in the ass to learn and set up, and getting done at the shop is a total rip off (they want almost as much as my bike cost to do the full conversion).
The riskiest option is to try one of the airless tire or tube options that are currently on the market. I say riskiest because the reviews seem mixed with some loving the and saying they ride just like normal and others saying they are butt devastatingly hard. They are also quite expensive for good ones,which means if I get them and hate them I am out quite a bit of money. But if they work for me then I will never have to worry about my tires until the spokes break or the tread is totally worn down smooth.
So thoughts about this subject or advice.
>>42409
No but I tried a similar product from a different company.
Same week I got them a wire punctured the sidewall.
I used them for a month but they actually started to come apart where that first puncture was.
Waste of money. I may get more flats with normal tires but at least they last longer and cost less.
No but I tried a similar product from a different company.
Same week I got them a wire punctured the sidewall.
I used them for a month but they actually started to come apart where that first puncture was.
Waste of money. I may get more flats with normal tires but at least they last longer and cost less.
>>42414
snake bite punctures?
did you try to pump to higher pressure? the maximum pressure is written on the tire.
something tells me that a narrower tire will be able to keep higher pressure.
snake bite punctures?
did you try to pump to higher pressure? the maximum pressure is written on the tire.
something tells me that a narrower tire will be able to keep higher pressure.
>>42417
No, a puncture from a stray wire on the road that I didn't see in time because it was almost the same color of the road and it was dark.
Just about all my flats come from some sharp thing that I didn't see in the dark on the side of the road. The bike lane is right next to the gutter for the main stretch of my commute so all that shit ends up in the bike lane and they only clean it MAYBE once every two weeks or so.
No, a puncture from a stray wire on the road that I didn't see in time because it was almost the same color of the road and it was dark.
Just about all my flats come from some sharp thing that I didn't see in the dark on the side of the road. The bike lane is right next to the gutter for the main stretch of my commute so all that shit ends up in the bike lane and they only clean it MAYBE once every two weeks or so.
>>42430
Well they are half the price as quality airless so I guess that is a option.
Weight is not a huge concern since I already carry a bunch of crap to commute and my lock alone adds like 2 or 3 pounds. As long as the roll resistance is not too bad and it actually does it's job it is worth a few extra grams.
Well they are half the price as quality airless so I guess that is a option.
Weight is not a huge concern since I already carry a bunch of crap to commute and my lock alone adds like 2 or 3 pounds. As long as the roll resistance is not too bad and it actually does it's job it is worth a few extra grams.
And I got another flat.
two flats in the same number of days.
I have to do something about this.
Worst yet I used a new brand of fix a flat stuff just to make it to work and it broke my mini pump so now I have to get a new one of those too.
Well it is still cheaper then a car.
I have added the matron + to my shop list.
I will get them on pay day.
Until then I have to get more tubes and a new mini pump.
two flats in the same number of days.
I have to do something about this.
Worst yet I used a new brand of fix a flat stuff just to make it to work and it broke my mini pump so now I have to get a new one of those too.
Well it is still cheaper then a car.
I have added the matron + to my shop list.
I will get them on pay day.
Until then I have to get more tubes and a new mini pump.
>>42445
Get a good minipump if you can. Also if you don't already- get a full sized track pump for home usage. If you don't have one of these I'm thinking that you're getting pinch punctures from underinflation. Minipumps are only for getting you home to your real pump.
Get a good minipump if you can. Also if you don't already- get a full sized track pump for home usage. If you don't have one of these I'm thinking that you're getting pinch punctures from underinflation. Minipumps are only for getting you home to your real pump.
>>42462
And I keep telling you they are flats caused by punctures. I normally run my tires at ~80psi and the types of holes from pinch flats are pretty distinctive.
The mini pump is essential because I get flat so often and have to change tubes on the road.(which I already got early this morning for my ride back home) Otherwise I would have to carry around my home pump, which is a bit cumbersome to say the least.
Anyway I am fucking done. I got another flat making this 3 days in a row of having to deal with this shit.
I am going to get the airless tires because I am fed up with this bullshit. They may be expensive but it is better then the risk of a flat costing me my job. There may be the chance that they will be too hard and hurt my ass, well I will deal with that problem when I get to it. Right now my main problem is punctures and this solves the problem without question.
Unfortunately I have to wait until payday and then wait until they ship so looks like I have to buy even more tubes today.
And I keep telling you they are flats caused by punctures. I normally run my tires at ~80psi and the types of holes from pinch flats are pretty distinctive.
The mini pump is essential because I get flat so often and have to change tubes on the road.(which I already got early this morning for my ride back home) Otherwise I would have to carry around my home pump, which is a bit cumbersome to say the least.
Anyway I am fucking done. I got another flat making this 3 days in a row of having to deal with this shit.
I am going to get the airless tires because I am fed up with this bullshit. They may be expensive but it is better then the risk of a flat costing me my job. There may be the chance that they will be too hard and hurt my ass, well I will deal with that problem when I get to it. Right now my main problem is punctures and this solves the problem without question.
Unfortunately I have to wait until payday and then wait until they ship so looks like I have to buy even more tubes today.
So I am looking at Tannus tires. My current rims/tires are 700x35c
They only have 700x32c or 700x40c that there sizing chart recommended for my rims. So I have no clue which I should actually get. I might have to call my local bike shop this morning to ask what they think.
They only have 700x32c or 700x40c that there sizing chart recommended for my rims. So I have no clue which I should actually get. I might have to call my local bike shop this morning to ask what they think.
>>42487
When it comes to tires- Marathon plus is for when you need to cycle over a war-torn city landscape complete with shell fragments, destroyed buildings, broken glass, and the occasional bullet.
When it comes to tires- Marathon plus is for when you need to cycle over a war-torn city landscape complete with shell fragments, destroyed buildings, broken glass, and the occasional bullet.
I got some inner-tube protectors from value village, those hard plastic things you wrap around inside and I haven't had a puncture flat in two years
I think they're like $2 each on jewbay
I think they're like $2 each on jewbay
>>42498
I have heard and read reviews that say those are just as likely to cause flats as they are at preventing them.
>jewbay
this isn't /pol/ or 4chan.
I have heard and read reviews that say those are just as likely to cause flats as they are at preventing them.
>jewbay
this isn't /pol/ or 4chan.
>>42496
>>42505
According to the bike shop ether tire should work just fine as long as my frame/fork has the clearance, which it does.
Said that their might be some slight but almost unnoticeable preference difference, mainly the smaller one most likely being a bit faster while the larger one maybe being slightly more comfortable but that both should handle more or less the same and be safe to put on.
On the tannus website they claim the 32c ones have the equivalent firmness of 75 psi while the 40c ones are supposed to have the equivalent of 65 psi. Thing is I normally right at around 80-85 psi but some people have complained that the tannus tires they had used felt like they were actually 120 psi, but they were using a totally different size that I will be using.
Thoughts?
>>42505
According to the bike shop ether tire should work just fine as long as my frame/fork has the clearance, which it does.
Said that their might be some slight but almost unnoticeable preference difference, mainly the smaller one most likely being a bit faster while the larger one maybe being slightly more comfortable but that both should handle more or less the same and be safe to put on.
On the tannus website they claim the 32c ones have the equivalent firmness of 75 psi while the 40c ones are supposed to have the equivalent of 65 psi. Thing is I normally right at around 80-85 psi but some people have complained that the tannus tires they had used felt like they were actually 120 psi, but they were using a totally different size that I will be using.
Thoughts?
>>42510
As a general rule, you only really need enough PSI to prevent pinch punctures, and wider tires require less PSI. Wider tires are a softer, more comfortable ride since you can put the pressures down, and they have better grip on looser surfaces.
However, if you're riding primarily on the road, go for the thinner tires since they'll be lighter.
As a general rule, you only really need enough PSI to prevent pinch punctures, and wider tires require less PSI. Wider tires are a softer, more comfortable ride since you can put the pressures down, and they have better grip on looser surfaces.
However, if you're riding primarily on the road, go for the thinner tires since they'll be lighter.
>>42511
What if I am riding on roads but they are shitty country roads that are warped and messed up from being flooded out by storm season?
Big tires?
What if I am riding on roads but they are shitty country roads that are warped and messed up from being flooded out by storm season?
Big tires?
>>42516
Actually I just messure how much space I actually have at the tightest area of my fork and it is maybe 2 millimeter over 40 mm, which is cutting it close since I don't know how much these tires could deform with use.
One option would to get the 40c in the back and a 32c in the front, but something tells me mismatch tires are a bad thing, even though I don't know exactly what could go wrong with such a set up.
I might go with the 32c ones just to be sure they will fit.
A bonus is less rolling resistances (at the expense of comfort) so there is that.
Actually I just messure how much space I actually have at the tightest area of my fork and it is maybe 2 millimeter over 40 mm, which is cutting it close since I don't know how much these tires could deform with use.
One option would to get the 40c in the back and a 32c in the front, but something tells me mismatch tires are a bad thing, even though I don't know exactly what could go wrong with such a set up.
I might go with the 32c ones just to be sure they will fit.
A bonus is less rolling resistances (at the expense of comfort) so there is that.
>>42517
i remember getting some fat tires for protection against bad roads and it was like suddenly i had heavy wheels made of stone
why dont they just make plastic tires and airless frames that never go bad and dont gotta patch or take care of
i remember getting some fat tires for protection against bad roads and it was like suddenly i had heavy wheels made of stone
why dont they just make plastic tires and airless frames that never go bad and dont gotta patch or take care of
>>42518
Mostly because it is hard to find a material that is durable enough, is comfortable to ride on (there is a reason why pneumatic tires were made and are still the default. Most solid tires are unbearable to ride), but not too soft so that they massively increase roll resistance or compromise control.
New stuff is out that looks promising but it is expensive and most cyclist are skeptical because airless tires of the past were so bad.
I have read/watched some reviews and did some research and I am personally at the point where I am willing to risk quite a bit of money to potentially be freed of flats for as long as the wheels last, which hopefully will be about 2 or so years if I am lucky (which I am not).
Mostly because it is hard to find a material that is durable enough, is comfortable to ride on (there is a reason why pneumatic tires were made and are still the default. Most solid tires are unbearable to ride), but not too soft so that they massively increase roll resistance or compromise control.
New stuff is out that looks promising but it is expensive and most cyclist are skeptical because airless tires of the past were so bad.
I have read/watched some reviews and did some research and I am personally at the point where I am willing to risk quite a bit of money to potentially be freed of flats for as long as the wheels last, which hopefully will be about 2 or so years if I am lucky (which I am not).
>>42516
Gravel level tires are enough. 32c tires will be plenty.
When you see roads like you're describing, it's 23mm/25mm tires you don't want. Narrow roadie tires, not good for that sort of road. I'd go for 32c. They're still wide tires.
Gravel level tires are enough. 32c tires will be plenty.
When you see roads like you're describing, it's 23mm/25mm tires you don't want. Narrow roadie tires, not good for that sort of road. I'd go for 32c. They're still wide tires.
>>42522
Good to know.
I will probably get the 32c because I am sure it will fit properly.
Here is hoping nothing goes wrong.
Good to know.
I will probably get the 32c because I am sure it will fit properly.
Here is hoping nothing goes wrong.
>>42520
wow they sure do come out with cool shit when you stop biking for a few years, i could have used those things so bad
wow they sure do come out with cool shit when you stop biking for a few years, i could have used those things so bad
And the airless tires are bought.
Now I just have to wait for them to get here, then install them.
But after that I will never have to deal with flats again (on that bike, for as long as the wheels last).
Now I just have to wait for them to get here, then install them.
But after that I will never have to deal with flats again (on that bike, for as long as the wheels last).
>>42591
How do you even get flats that often, seems as if someone is sabotaging your ride to me.
How do you even get flats that often, seems as if someone is sabotaging your ride to me.
>>42593
depends where you ride. in texas a lot of plants have thorns, the roads have lots of glass. i would get a flat once every week just riding for not even 2 hours each day.
depends where you ride. in texas a lot of plants have thorns, the roads have lots of glass. i would get a flat once every week just riding for not even 2 hours each day.
>>42599
(not him)
Depends on where you are in the state.
Mexicans and white trash alike love to smash shit on the road, and there's enough litter to compete for a prize in the states. Not a lot of glass here in Austin, but apparently we have bombs, so there's that.
(not him)
Depends on where you are in the state.
Mexicans and white trash alike love to smash shit on the road, and there's enough litter to compete for a prize in the states. Not a lot of glass here in Austin, but apparently we have bombs, so there's that.
>>42594
Goatheads and glass huh? Yeah those things are basically tire killers.
Tubeless is another option for point punctures, since the sealant goo deals with those no problem. Slashes from pieces of glass aren't not dealt with as easily.
If you're having puncture problems generally the first thing to try are marathons, or if the roads are really bad, marathon plus. They're heavy duty tires that are inexpensive. I roll them on my commuter.
>>42614
Used stuff is often recommended, but the problem is that you need some bike experience to be able to tell the bad ones from the good ones. If you look up online guides and such on buying a used bike that will help.
The thing about bikes is that it's not really a good idea to go new below a certain price, since you get hard to maintain, unreliable chinese quality bikes. They will work for many people, but they'll be heavy or fragile, and when, say, the drivetrain needs replacing, you might just have to replace the entire bike. There's little modularity.
Generally though I recommend getting something you will want to ride. Not much else matters, since it doesn't matter what the bike is if it's uncomfortable due to being the wrong size, or you just don't feel good riding it, since you'll never use it.
You can get some really good deals in the used market if you look for older bikes. Avoid bikes with suspension since that's weight and added maintenance if you're going on road anyway.
Goatheads and glass huh? Yeah those things are basically tire killers.
Tubeless is another option for point punctures, since the sealant goo deals with those no problem. Slashes from pieces of glass aren't not dealt with as easily.
If you're having puncture problems generally the first thing to try are marathons, or if the roads are really bad, marathon plus. They're heavy duty tires that are inexpensive. I roll them on my commuter.
>>42614
Used stuff is often recommended, but the problem is that you need some bike experience to be able to tell the bad ones from the good ones. If you look up online guides and such on buying a used bike that will help.
The thing about bikes is that it's not really a good idea to go new below a certain price, since you get hard to maintain, unreliable chinese quality bikes. They will work for many people, but they'll be heavy or fragile, and when, say, the drivetrain needs replacing, you might just have to replace the entire bike. There's little modularity.
Generally though I recommend getting something you will want to ride. Not much else matters, since it doesn't matter what the bike is if it's uncomfortable due to being the wrong size, or you just don't feel good riding it, since you'll never use it.
You can get some really good deals in the used market if you look for older bikes. Avoid bikes with suspension since that's weight and added maintenance if you're going on road anyway.
God fucking damn it!
The address was off by one number so the tires I ordered were returned to sender.
Why does everything involving bike tires go wrong for me? Did I piss off the spirit of bike tires or something? Why does this have to be so fucking hard?
The address was off by one number so the tires I ordered were returned to sender.
Why does everything involving bike tires go wrong for me? Did I piss off the spirit of bike tires or something? Why does this have to be so fucking hard?
I started using clipless pedals a couple of days ago on my bike. I like them. Getting the position right is strange though, and I'm still adjusting them so they feel right. This may take some time.
The main experience I get from them is this: It's like all your leg movement is being captured and thrown into the drivetrain, it's neat.
I practised with them extensively before going on a ride with them and I still get scares now and then, but I've got them attached loosely so they disconnect easy.
I'm using SPD style, for the walkable shoes.
The main experience I get from them is this: It's like all your leg movement is being captured and thrown into the drivetrain, it's neat.
I practised with them extensively before going on a ride with them and I still get scares now and then, but I've got them attached loosely so they disconnect easy.
I'm using SPD style, for the walkable shoes.
Tires finally came and they don't fit.
Of course they don't, because I measured them the wrong way, because I didn't want to spend 5 fucking dollars on calibers.
Now I have the choice of sending them back (and giving up on airless tires all together since once I messured my rims "properly" they don't make tires that fit my current inner rim with in 700c) or spending over $50 on a set of new rims (which I will have to hope the measurements as advertised are correct) that will fit the $160+shipping tires.
I will also have to learn how to disassemble and reassemble the whole back wheel to replace it.
Why is it that it feels like anything involving bike tires is jinxed or cursed as far as I am involved?
If I didn't also need my bike to get around I think all this bullshit would have made me quit this "hobby". But I have come to rely and built my life around getting around by bicycle already so quitting is not a option.
I am just so fucking fustrated. I just want to ride the damn thing, is that really too much to ask for. To go a week without needing to buy more shit or fix something, or upgrade something, or fix the attempt at a upgrade.
I am tired and annoyed. So so tired. Why can't anything ever work out for me? This was suppost to be it. This was supposed to be the final solution to all my tire problems, but no, it is a cause of brand new problems, problems which I will have ether double down and throw more money at, or give up, hope I can get a refund, and deal with the same torrent of bullshit that I was trying to fix in the first place. I am not a bad person but it feels like I am being punished.
This sucks.
/rant
Of course they don't, because I measured them the wrong way, because I didn't want to spend 5 fucking dollars on calibers.
Now I have the choice of sending them back (and giving up on airless tires all together since once I messured my rims "properly" they don't make tires that fit my current inner rim with in 700c) or spending over $50 on a set of new rims (which I will have to hope the measurements as advertised are correct) that will fit the $160+shipping tires.
I will also have to learn how to disassemble and reassemble the whole back wheel to replace it.
Why is it that it feels like anything involving bike tires is jinxed or cursed as far as I am involved?
If I didn't also need my bike to get around I think all this bullshit would have made me quit this "hobby". But I have come to rely and built my life around getting around by bicycle already so quitting is not a option.
I am just so fucking fustrated. I just want to ride the damn thing, is that really too much to ask for. To go a week without needing to buy more shit or fix something, or upgrade something, or fix the attempt at a upgrade.
I am tired and annoyed. So so tired. Why can't anything ever work out for me? This was suppost to be it. This was supposed to be the final solution to all my tire problems, but no, it is a cause of brand new problems, problems which I will have ether double down and throw more money at, or give up, hope I can get a refund, and deal with the same torrent of bullshit that I was trying to fix in the first place. I am not a bad person but it feels like I am being punished.
This sucks.
/rant
>>42828
It does suck and you've had so many problems. Check out the price of a pair of marathons, they're tough.
It does suck and you've had so many problems. Check out the price of a pair of marathons, they're tough.
>>42828
Got some bad news for you, you are also going to have to get specialist tools too if you plan or replacing the back rim.
>>42829
I am starting to think you are a shill for the company.
Dude has already tried "flat-less" tires and is already nearly $200 in the hole to get this to work. May as well see it through to the end and report back to us if it was worth all the hassle.
Got some bad news for you, you are also going to have to get specialist tools too if you plan or replacing the back rim.
>>42829
I am starting to think you are a shill for the company.
Dude has already tried "flat-less" tires and is already nearly $200 in the hole to get this to work. May as well see it through to the end and report back to us if it was worth all the hassle.
>>42831
Well I speak from experience, I've got a 1000 miles on my marathons, zero punctures.
Well I speak from experience, I've got a 1000 miles on my marathons, zero punctures.
>>42829
How about you fuck off with your fucking marathons. They are not tough enough.
I tried the comparable Continental Touring Plus and they fell apart in less then a month. Every post I make about tires you respond with
>buy marathons
From what I read they are constructed the same as the tires I tried before so there is no reason to believe they will preform any better.
Got it.
How about you fuck off with your fucking marathons. They are not tough enough.
I tried the comparable Continental Touring Plus and they fell apart in less then a month. Every post I make about tires you respond with
>buy marathons
From what I read they are constructed the same as the tires I tried before so there is no reason to believe they will preform any better.
Got it.
>>42833
You don't ride in similar riding conditions that I ride in so your personal experience is meaningless to me.
You don't ride in similar riding conditions that I ride in so your personal experience is meaningless to me.
>>42599
i don't exactly know if the glass causes it, but everytime i'd pull over to do a quick fix on my flat tires i'd find bits of broken glass. the thorns are probably the main problem, in texas it is super flat filled with thorny plants. those plants die because it's so damn dry and the spiky seed pods blow around onto the road and get stuck on the road surface waiting like caltrops to stab your tire.
i don't exactly know if the glass causes it, but everytime i'd pull over to do a quick fix on my flat tires i'd find bits of broken glass. the thorns are probably the main problem, in texas it is super flat filled with thorny plants. those plants die because it's so damn dry and the spiky seed pods blow around onto the road and get stuck on the road surface waiting like caltrops to stab your tire.
>>42837
Goatheads. Yeah marathons won't stop those. The reason I'm biased towards them though is because they're cheap.
Goatheads. Yeah marathons won't stop those. The reason I'm biased towards them though is because they're cheap.
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>>42838
never knew that's what they are called, just look at the fuckers though, designed to fuck you up
never knew that's what they are called, just look at the fuckers though, designed to fuck you up
>>42838
The airless dude has already spent over a hundred, and probably is going to end up spending a hundred more for all the new rims and the tools to swap the rear cassette (or pay to have it done at a shop, or rent tools for the day, whatever). I don't think money is the determining issue for him. I think he wants something that guarantees no more flats, and is willing to go through hell to obtain it.
So you can stop shilling marathons already.
The airless dude has already spent over a hundred, and probably is going to end up spending a hundred more for all the new rims and the tools to swap the rear cassette (or pay to have it done at a shop, or rent tools for the day, whatever). I don't think money is the determining issue for him. I think he wants something that guarantees no more flats, and is willing to go through hell to obtain it.
So you can stop shilling marathons already.
>>42831
>>42840
Yeah, I just got off the phone with my local bike shop and if I bring the rim in then they will just charge me $5 to change the cassette over to the new rim, which is WAY cheaper then buying all the tools I would need to do that one step myself. From there I can basically handle everything just fine I think. Only hard part is getting my bike into the shop on one of my days off then getting it back to my house so I can fully work on it and change the tires to the airless ones.
There are 3 ways I could do it.
1. I could take the bus with just the rims, have them swap cassettes, ride the bus back home, then install everything
2. I could take the whole bike (ether ride or bike there) and take the tire off the rim there and have them swap the cassette, then put the tire on the new rim and ride home, once there swapping out the tire again with the airless one
3. I could install the airless tires into the new rims and bring them and my bike to the shop, then once they swap the cassette I install the wheels myself right there and be done with it then and there, but still will have to lug back the old wheels.
Well for now I have to reinstall my old tires in my bike so I can ride the thing. This string of failures mentally hurts man. I really hope all this work and money pays off. I measured everything and triple checked the measurements the seller listed so these rims should fit the airless tires. I am checking everything a 4th time (and will probably check it a few times after that) but I am pretty sure I found ok rims that will fit the tires (and look good on my bike as a side bonus). I will cross check reviews of both the seller and the rims to make sure everything is good and if it all checks out I will order them ether tonight or tomorrow.
(last second update)
looks like there are no reviews on the rims at all, but at least the seller has good reviews.
Totally taking a chance when it comes to over all quality. Hope this is not a big mistake.
>>42840
Yeah, I just got off the phone with my local bike shop and if I bring the rim in then they will just charge me $5 to change the cassette over to the new rim, which is WAY cheaper then buying all the tools I would need to do that one step myself. From there I can basically handle everything just fine I think. Only hard part is getting my bike into the shop on one of my days off then getting it back to my house so I can fully work on it and change the tires to the airless ones.
There are 3 ways I could do it.
1. I could take the bus with just the rims, have them swap cassettes, ride the bus back home, then install everything
2. I could take the whole bike (ether ride or bike there) and take the tire off the rim there and have them swap the cassette, then put the tire on the new rim and ride home, once there swapping out the tire again with the airless one
3. I could install the airless tires into the new rims and bring them and my bike to the shop, then once they swap the cassette I install the wheels myself right there and be done with it then and there, but still will have to lug back the old wheels.
Well for now I have to reinstall my old tires in my bike so I can ride the thing. This string of failures mentally hurts man. I really hope all this work and money pays off. I measured everything and triple checked the measurements the seller listed so these rims should fit the airless tires. I am checking everything a 4th time (and will probably check it a few times after that) but I am pretty sure I found ok rims that will fit the tires (and look good on my bike as a side bonus). I will cross check reviews of both the seller and the rims to make sure everything is good and if it all checks out I will order them ether tonight or tomorrow.
(last second update)
looks like there are no reviews on the rims at all, but at least the seller has good reviews.
Totally taking a chance when it comes to over all quality. Hope this is not a big mistake.
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>>40553
>bike tour
Sounds really nice, wiz. I love cycling, and I used to cycle all of the time around my neighborhood. I would do odd jobs for my parents for my parents/online technical writing, and I saved up around $400 a few years ago. I bought a nice mountain bike. I am extremely paranoid and a huge coward, so I could never leave me neighborhood and travel around. I remember cycling in this forest one time, and I got lost and had a massive panic attack; I thought I was going to have a heart attack or die. The only good thing is that I have a very good memory, so I found some familiar landmarks and escaped. Kept me away from exploring, probably for good.
good luck
>bike tour
Sounds really nice, wiz. I love cycling, and I used to cycle all of the time around my neighborhood. I would do odd jobs for my parents for my parents/online technical writing, and I saved up around $400 a few years ago. I bought a nice mountain bike. I am extremely paranoid and a huge coward, so I could never leave me neighborhood and travel around. I remember cycling in this forest one time, and I got lost and had a massive panic attack; I thought I was going to have a heart attack or die. The only good thing is that I have a very good memory, so I found some familiar landmarks and escaped. Kept me away from exploring, probably for good.
good luck
>>42857
The secret is to look back and remember what it looks like. Don't just go out into the woods wherever on the first visit, work towards lengthening the route and getting to know any little landmarks that indicate where you are or what direction you are in.
I get just as anxious, but last year I was so infuriated with myself I just forced myself to do as described above. I can travel roughly 4 miles in any direction from my house now and it is still just as magical as the first time; if not moreso now that I don't have such anxiety. Don't give up wizzie, just take exploration gently and sensibly.
The secret is to look back and remember what it looks like. Don't just go out into the woods wherever on the first visit, work towards lengthening the route and getting to know any little landmarks that indicate where you are or what direction you are in.
I get just as anxious, but last year I was so infuriated with myself I just forced myself to do as described above. I can travel roughly 4 miles in any direction from my house now and it is still just as magical as the first time; if not moreso now that I don't have such anxiety. Don't give up wizzie, just take exploration gently and sensibly.
I tried taking a new short cut that ended up taking a hour longer to get to my destination.
Full story is as follows
I updated google maps and found that it suggested a totally new route that it said was 20 minutes shorter and cut off a few miles so I decided to check it out.
A few miles in it had me turn down a little road I never been down before and I was like, OK. Then that road turned into a dirt road, then that road had a sign and barricade saying it was a private road now. Now if I had been wiser I would have cut my losses and turned around, instead I went around the barricade deep into red neck territory for the sake of time and "adventure". The dirt road up until this point was packed down pretty hard so I was still making good time, but a few miles in I started hitting sand patches that slowed me down. Then the roads got super shitty and technical but I kept going. At this point I was deep in the middle of nowhere following what I think was a old abandon logging road that was now occasionally used by the hunting club. A few more miles in and the map on my phone is totally black, but it said to keep going on the road I was on. It being too far to turn back at this point, and with me now racing the sun, I shrugged and kept going. The low light meant that I was hitting more bumps which started to make this "adventure" much less fun. I then started to see spent shell casings all over and bullet holes in stuff. It was then that I really got nervose that there was a legit possibility I could get shot for trespassing at dusk on a private road, but I kept going. Too late now after all. Hopped a few more gates following googles instructions and was starting to feel like I was making progress, then the last of the light faded as the sun set beyond the horizon. I had a weak front light that is bright enough to be seen by cars and the like but not really bright enough to go fast on sketchy dirt forest roads in pitch black darkness. Worst yet all the nocturnal animals and insects were starting to wake up and make some noise which was more then a little creepy. But I kept going. Then I reached a point where I was openly swearing in vain at google because it had me go in a direction that turned from a dirt road to no road at all, just bush and grass and shit that had over grown where a road once was years ago. I STILL keep going, getting beat up and bugged up all the way, hopping it will be over soon. Then the map finally stops being black, the dirt road comes back in, and I start to see signs of human activity again. I even pass a random trailer in the woods as I made my way out. I hopped one more gate and I find myself on a tarmac smooth bit of highway with a tail wind, 10 miles north of my destination somehow (meaning I had to actually go past where I was heading). I put in the same effort peddling on that smooth road that I was on the dirt road and I was flying. I don't know for sure how fast I was going, but man was I going. Those last few miles went by like cake. I reached my destination, swore at google one more time, then hugged my bike for getting me through that ordeal.
Turns out that google's estimated times were based on thinking the road was properly paved so it took me a hour longer then what it estimated.
Lesson, if you take a new route it is probably a good idea to check the satellite view to make sure it is actually reasonable first.
Full story is as follows
I updated google maps and found that it suggested a totally new route that it said was 20 minutes shorter and cut off a few miles so I decided to check it out.
A few miles in it had me turn down a little road I never been down before and I was like, OK. Then that road turned into a dirt road, then that road had a sign and barricade saying it was a private road now. Now if I had been wiser I would have cut my losses and turned around, instead I went around the barricade deep into red neck territory for the sake of time and "adventure". The dirt road up until this point was packed down pretty hard so I was still making good time, but a few miles in I started hitting sand patches that slowed me down. Then the roads got super shitty and technical but I kept going. At this point I was deep in the middle of nowhere following what I think was a old abandon logging road that was now occasionally used by the hunting club. A few more miles in and the map on my phone is totally black, but it said to keep going on the road I was on. It being too far to turn back at this point, and with me now racing the sun, I shrugged and kept going. The low light meant that I was hitting more bumps which started to make this "adventure" much less fun. I then started to see spent shell casings all over and bullet holes in stuff. It was then that I really got nervose that there was a legit possibility I could get shot for trespassing at dusk on a private road, but I kept going. Too late now after all. Hopped a few more gates following googles instructions and was starting to feel like I was making progress, then the last of the light faded as the sun set beyond the horizon. I had a weak front light that is bright enough to be seen by cars and the like but not really bright enough to go fast on sketchy dirt forest roads in pitch black darkness. Worst yet all the nocturnal animals and insects were starting to wake up and make some noise which was more then a little creepy. But I kept going. Then I reached a point where I was openly swearing in vain at google because it had me go in a direction that turned from a dirt road to no road at all, just bush and grass and shit that had over grown where a road once was years ago. I STILL keep going, getting beat up and bugged up all the way, hopping it will be over soon. Then the map finally stops being black, the dirt road comes back in, and I start to see signs of human activity again. I even pass a random trailer in the woods as I made my way out. I hopped one more gate and I find myself on a tarmac smooth bit of highway with a tail wind, 10 miles north of my destination somehow (meaning I had to actually go past where I was heading). I put in the same effort peddling on that smooth road that I was on the dirt road and I was flying. I don't know for sure how fast I was going, but man was I going. Those last few miles went by like cake. I reached my destination, swore at google one more time, then hugged my bike for getting me through that ordeal.
Turns out that google's estimated times were based on thinking the road was properly paved so it took me a hour longer then what it estimated.
Lesson, if you take a new route it is probably a good idea to check the satellite view to make sure it is actually reasonable first.
and some how my front derailer got fucked up so I have to learn how to adjust its position and re-index everything. Fucking joy…
Why can't I just get on the thing, just peddle, and have the thing work without having to constantly having to tinker with something?
I might just say fuck it and have the bike shop look at it, but I don't really want to spend $20 bucks on something I have the tools to fix on my own, even if I have to learn while I go.
Why can't I just get on the thing, just peddle, and have the thing work without having to constantly having to tinker with something?
I might just say fuck it and have the bike shop look at it, but I don't really want to spend $20 bucks on something I have the tools to fix on my own, even if I have to learn while I go.
>>42873
So it is safe to assume that cycling is not your hobby then, and you have nothing of interest to say on the subject.
Please think before you post and read the rules. Low quality disruptive post are banned.
So it is safe to assume that cycling is not your hobby then, and you have nothing of interest to say on the subject.
Please think before you post and read the rules. Low quality disruptive post are banned.
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I'm looking to get a cheaper used bike and I came across this one here. The guy is asking $350 Canadian for it OBO so there is some room to negotiate, I was thinking of offering $300 but I don't really know anything about bikes besides that I want an large aluminum frame hybrid (I'm 6'1). I live in a suburban area, and will mostly be riding for fun/exercise on gravel/dirt roads / beginner trails and a bit around town.
The information he provided is
>Older full suspension Rocky Mountain bike. In excellent shape for its age, recent service, new breaks and back tire. Great bike for road or trail. Asking 350, OBO
>The bike is anywhere from 15 years up, I didn't buy it new. That being said it was not ridden for a lot of years. Rock shock front suspension. Fox rear. Shimano components. really good shape for its age.
As someone just getting into riding it seems like a nice starter point but I wanted to get some opinions first.
The information he provided is
>Older full suspension Rocky Mountain bike. In excellent shape for its age, recent service, new breaks and back tire. Great bike for road or trail. Asking 350, OBO
>The bike is anywhere from 15 years up, I didn't buy it new. That being said it was not ridden for a lot of years. Rock shock front suspension. Fox rear. Shimano components. really good shape for its age.
As someone just getting into riding it seems like a nice starter point but I wanted to get some opinions first.
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>>42873
You don't have to have someone teach you, since it's all about practice. If you borrow, rent or obtain a bike, you can learn how to ride. I heavily recommend getting knee, elbow, head protection first. Gloves for the hands will be good too.
It's a process of falling off a lot, until eventually you stop falling off. You're writing motor routines into your cerebellum, and so it takes lots of practice and failure. So long as you don't give up you can learn whenever.
>>42878
Thanks.
>>42879
Check the expensive hard to replace components. Go and see it in person before buying.
Check the frame for cracks and damage, check the chainrings for wear, check the wear on the rims of the wheels, and check to see if the seatpost is stuck.
The seatpost being stuck is a good indicator that it was not taken care of. Usually possible to unstuck them it's a lot of effort.
From the small pictures I can't really tell too much, but I don't see any rust, and it looks in fairly good condition.
I'd go and see it, and agree before paying for it that you'd like to have the option of returning it (with refund) available if you notice somethjng in the next few days.
I'm not an expert but it looks clean, there's no damage, and so I think it'd be fine. You could probably haggle the price down if you find something like worn chain rings (replaceable) or worn drivechain components in general. Bring a chain wear gauge, since if the chain is stretched it's easy to haggle the price down since you will need a new chain anyway.
You don't have to have someone teach you, since it's all about practice. If you borrow, rent or obtain a bike, you can learn how to ride. I heavily recommend getting knee, elbow, head protection first. Gloves for the hands will be good too.
It's a process of falling off a lot, until eventually you stop falling off. You're writing motor routines into your cerebellum, and so it takes lots of practice and failure. So long as you don't give up you can learn whenever.
>>42878
Thanks.
>>42879
Check the expensive hard to replace components. Go and see it in person before buying.
Check the frame for cracks and damage, check the chainrings for wear, check the wear on the rims of the wheels, and check to see if the seatpost is stuck.
The seatpost being stuck is a good indicator that it was not taken care of. Usually possible to unstuck them it's a lot of effort.
From the small pictures I can't really tell too much, but I don't see any rust, and it looks in fairly good condition.
I'd go and see it, and agree before paying for it that you'd like to have the option of returning it (with refund) available if you notice somethjng in the next few days.
I'm not an expert but it looks clean, there's no damage, and so I think it'd be fine. You could probably haggle the price down if you find something like worn chain rings (replaceable) or worn drivechain components in general. Bring a chain wear gauge, since if the chain is stretched it's easy to haggle the price down since you will need a new chain anyway.
>>42873
It's all about learning to gain equilibrium. I would suggest you to try on a slope with little declivity in order to slide without being forced to pedal, thus focusing more on gaining balance. Once you learned to keep your balance, you can start pedaling. GL
It's all about learning to gain equilibrium. I would suggest you to try on a slope with little declivity in order to slide without being forced to pedal, thus focusing more on gaining balance. Once you learned to keep your balance, you can start pedaling. GL
>>42867
I just can't get the front derailer positioned and adjusted right. It looks like I will have to take it into the shop and admit I am a noob who can't do this basic thing on my own.
I just can't get the front derailer positioned and adjusted right. It looks like I will have to take it into the shop and admit I am a noob who can't do this basic thing on my own.
>>42892
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea03ChN-7Vg
There's another video they put up on it that was helpful too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea03ChN-7Vg
There's another video they put up on it that was helpful too.
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>>42892
Got my bike to the shop.
What took me hours and I was still failed at took them 15 minutes and was basically perfect.
They didn't even charge me. They did however say that I will need a new chain and rear sprocket despite the bike being only about 2 or 3 months old. When I mentioned that they said that chains only have a life span of about 2500 miles. I then said that I only ride about 100 miles a week
>their face when they looked at me, looked down at the chain, and looked back at me
I then said that maybe I ride a bit more then that without noticing.
I am just glad that for now I have my bike up and running again. Feels good…for now.
Got my bike to the shop.
What took me hours and I was still failed at took them 15 minutes and was basically perfect.
They didn't even charge me. They did however say that I will need a new chain and rear sprocket despite the bike being only about 2 or 3 months old. When I mentioned that they said that chains only have a life span of about 2500 miles. I then said that I only ride about 100 miles a week
>their face when they looked at me, looked down at the chain, and looked back at me
I then said that maybe I ride a bit more then that without noticing.
I am just glad that for now I have my bike up and running again. Feels good…for now.
>>42924
Don't worry about it. Dérailleur adjustment (front especially) requires some practice.
As for chains, get yourself a chain wear gauge. They're not expensive (usually) and neither are chains. They're fairly easy to replace (messy though) if you have a piece of wire that you can use to take the tension of the chain while you put the ends together (use master link).
Can you take a picture of your rear sprocket? Is it a freewheel or cassette?
Generally unless you really want self reliance, a shop can replace the rear sprocket in like 5 minutes. The tools to do it yourself cost more than the replacement parts.
Don't worry about it. Dérailleur adjustment (front especially) requires some practice.
As for chains, get yourself a chain wear gauge. They're not expensive (usually) and neither are chains. They're fairly easy to replace (messy though) if you have a piece of wire that you can use to take the tension of the chain while you put the ends together (use master link).
Can you take a picture of your rear sprocket? Is it a freewheel or cassette?
Generally unless you really want self reliance, a shop can replace the rear sprocket in like 5 minutes. The tools to do it yourself cost more than the replacement parts.
I wish I lived in a cyclist friendly area. Instead you have a bunch of people who would scream obscenities at me, try to run me off the road, people steal my bike if I leave it outside to go in anywhere, and would have to deal with all kind of violent confrontations with local rednecks.
>>42931
That sucks man, I ride all over the south but 99% of road interactions have been fine, very few people just being a asshole for no reason.
You have to worry about bike theft just about everywhere though, especially if it is a halfway nice bike or better. A couple of locks that are reasonable for the area and the cost of your bike is a good idea. Just don't get one of those thin cable locks, they suck.
That sucks man, I ride all over the south but 99% of road interactions have been fine, very few people just being a asshole for no reason.
You have to worry about bike theft just about everywhere though, especially if it is a halfway nice bike or better. A couple of locks that are reasonable for the area and the cost of your bike is a good idea. Just don't get one of those thin cable locks, they suck.
>>42933
I am personally partial to big thick chains, but I do admit that the weight makes them too cumbersome for most. Still, nothing less then a angle grinder or a solid 6 foot metal pole to use a lever can cut or break my lock so my bike looks really unappealing when there are other bikes to choose from to steal.
I am personally partial to big thick chains, but I do admit that the weight makes them too cumbersome for most. Still, nothing less then a angle grinder or a solid 6 foot metal pole to use a lever can cut or break my lock so my bike looks really unappealing when there are other bikes to choose from to steal.
I got the new rims I bought to fit the tannus tires and just my luck they don't fit ether because the measurements listed were completely wrong.
They said the rims had The Inner Rim Width was advertised as 19 mm. It was 13 mm when I actually measured. Such fucking bullshit!
I think I am still within the 30 days so I am just going to try and return the tires (at my expense plus a processing fee which will still cost me ~$30 bucks) and send back the fucking rims.
I wasted so much fucking money and time. It is impossible to find rims with accurate information on the internal rim width so I am totally fucked if I don't return them as soon as I can.
I am starting to think they don't even make 700c bike rims with the internal width of 19-21 mm. If they do I have yet to see a rim listed with such specs except the one I bought that turned out to be completely wrong. Like so wrong I have no clue how where the fuck they pulled 19 mm from. Nothing on the rim measures to 19 mm.
I am so fucking done with cycling.
As soon as I can afford a car or something I am done with this bullshit.
The tires are flimsy shits, the tubes have to be replaced more often then buying gas for a car from the 80s, and when I try to do something about it nothing fucking works ever.
Special tires that are supposed to protect against flats don't work.
Sealant doesn't work.
And I can't even get the fucking airless tires on my fucking bike in the first place so they don't work.
Nothing I do works. It is all pointless. This won't get better.
Fuck it, they need to just make urethane wheels and some sort of vibration absorber and be done with it.
They said the rims had The Inner Rim Width was advertised as 19 mm. It was 13 mm when I actually measured. Such fucking bullshit!
I think I am still within the 30 days so I am just going to try and return the tires (at my expense plus a processing fee which will still cost me ~$30 bucks) and send back the fucking rims.
I wasted so much fucking money and time. It is impossible to find rims with accurate information on the internal rim width so I am totally fucked if I don't return them as soon as I can.
I am starting to think they don't even make 700c bike rims with the internal width of 19-21 mm. If they do I have yet to see a rim listed with such specs except the one I bought that turned out to be completely wrong. Like so wrong I have no clue how where the fuck they pulled 19 mm from. Nothing on the rim measures to 19 mm.
I am so fucking done with cycling.
As soon as I can afford a car or something I am done with this bullshit.
The tires are flimsy shits, the tubes have to be replaced more often then buying gas for a car from the 80s, and when I try to do something about it nothing fucking works ever.
Special tires that are supposed to protect against flats don't work.
Sealant doesn't work.
And I can't even get the fucking airless tires on my fucking bike in the first place so they don't work.
Nothing I do works. It is all pointless. This won't get better.
Fuck it, they need to just make urethane wheels and some sort of vibration absorber and be done with it.
>>42857
>I am extremely paranoid and a huge coward, so I could never leave me neighborhood and travel around. I remember cycling in this forest one time, and I got lost and had a massive panic attack; I thought I was going to have a heart attack or die.
I did a bike tour last year, in the days/weeks before heading out I was so nervous that I would get pain in my stomach just thinking about it. I have anxiety, but from what you wrote yours seem to be more severe than mine. A phrase I like to tell myself is "whatever happens, I'll deal with it". What it means is that things might get tough, but at the end of the day it's not gonna fucking kill you. Don't underestimate your brain, it has it's ways of solving problems when challenged.
>I am extremely paranoid and a huge coward, so I could never leave me neighborhood and travel around. I remember cycling in this forest one time, and I got lost and had a massive panic attack; I thought I was going to have a heart attack or die.
I did a bike tour last year, in the days/weeks before heading out I was so nervous that I would get pain in my stomach just thinking about it. I have anxiety, but from what you wrote yours seem to be more severe than mine. A phrase I like to tell myself is "whatever happens, I'll deal with it". What it means is that things might get tough, but at the end of the day it's not gonna fucking kill you. Don't underestimate your brain, it has it's ways of solving problems when challenged.
>>43190
Buying parts online is indeed a massive pain in the ass when it comes to sizes. That's not a logical reason to write off cycling, though.
Although I'd like to put my own bike together when the time for a new one comes, I'll have to concede that just buying a complete bike from a shop is more sensible, and probably the same price as, if not cheaper than, buying individual parts.
What kind of tires have you been buying? I almost never have any trouble with ones that are around $35 or more per tire. Sealant is also junk. You could try tire liners if the flats just won't stop even on quality tires. And don't bother with airless tires. They've been obsolete for over a hundred years due to their harsh ride and bad grip on the road.
Buying parts online is indeed a massive pain in the ass when it comes to sizes. That's not a logical reason to write off cycling, though.
Although I'd like to put my own bike together when the time for a new one comes, I'll have to concede that just buying a complete bike from a shop is more sensible, and probably the same price as, if not cheaper than, buying individual parts.
What kind of tires have you been buying? I almost never have any trouble with ones that are around $35 or more per tire. Sealant is also junk. You could try tire liners if the flats just won't stop even on quality tires. And don't bother with airless tires. They've been obsolete for over a hundred years due to their harsh ride and bad grip on the road.
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>>43346
Spare the advice dude, while it's a shame he's giving up cycling without going to tubeless or getting non-meme tires and such, he's riding over these things.
As for bikes, I've had good experiences with buying full bikes online. You get all the parts together so the value is good on that part, and you get good value from being able to shop around online.
You put them together yourself, do some adjustments and you're done. So long as you don't touch the bottom bracket you don't really need anything more than allen keys and grease.
Spare the advice dude, while it's a shame he's giving up cycling without going to tubeless or getting non-meme tires and such, he's riding over these things.
As for bikes, I've had good experiences with buying full bikes online. You get all the parts together so the value is good on that part, and you get good value from being able to shop around online.
You put them together yourself, do some adjustments and you're done. So long as you don't touch the bottom bracket you don't really need anything more than allen keys and grease.
Fucking shit cock.
Had to ride in to work and there were strips of black roofing paper in the road/bike lane full of nails/tacks that not just punctured the tube but ripped the fucking tire in four places. I had to use duck tape and a dollar bill to patch up the tire enough for me to get there after I replaced the tube.
Fuck!
The fucked up thing is I crunched the numbers and it is going to take me months to save up for a reliable car. I am trapped in this bike tire hell with no escape.
Had to ride in to work and there were strips of black roofing paper in the road/bike lane full of nails/tacks that not just punctured the tube but ripped the fucking tire in four places. I had to use duck tape and a dollar bill to patch up the tire enough for me to get there after I replaced the tube.
Fuck!
The fucked up thing is I crunched the numbers and it is going to take me months to save up for a reliable car. I am trapped in this bike tire hell with no escape.
Quick question. I'm having trouble putting my brake cables on for the rear brake and front brake. They're cantilever, and the front brake has this metal L-tube that it wants the brake cable to go through in order for it to line up with the brake. Problem is, the brake cable is stiff or something, and if I pull on the brake, the cable just gets stuck in the fucking metal L-tube from friction.
What do you do for friction with brake cables? Are there some little plastic parts and tubes that I'm supposed to get?
What do you do for friction with brake cables? Are there some little plastic parts and tubes that I'm supposed to get?
>>43351
there's supposed to be a plastic insert for those things because otherwise the metal against metal friction frays the wires, also you're supposed to add grease inside it
there's supposed to be a plastic insert for those things because otherwise the metal against metal friction frays the wires, also you're supposed to add grease inside it
I want to travel a distance of 1.7 thousand kilometers on a bicycle.
What would be an approx time to reach my destination?
What bicycle should I buy for it ?
What are other factors about bicycle I should pay attention to while travelling ?
What would be an approx time to reach my destination?
What bicycle should I buy for it ?
What are other factors about bicycle I should pay attention to while travelling ?
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>>43353
>What would be an approx time to reach my destination?
Depends on where you're cycling (hills, flat ground, trafficated area, etc.), your phsyical shape, your bike, how much you're willing to cycle each day, and so on. Assuming everything is average, you could probably do 100km a day, meaning you would spend 17 days. Could be more or less, depending on the aforementioned factors.
>What bicycle should I buy for it?
You want comfort above all, if the bike doesen't fit you well, then you will develop pain and have to quit early. A good seat and handlebar is most important. If the handlebar is too low (so you have to lean forward and put all your weight on it), you can develop carpal tunnel and shoulder problems. A drop handlebar and butterfly bar gives less vibration than a straight handlebar (what most bikes have), so you should consider that. A bad seat can give you rashes and ass pain, therfore a wide and soft seat is best for touring. A regular bike seat will probably fuck you up rather quickly.
You need to try out the bike on some long rides in your local area before going on tour, to see that it is comfortable and doesen't give you any problems. Otherwise your tour could very well end up to being a total failure.
Also, the bike should have at least 21 gears, because you need those low gears, especially if you're touring up in mountains. Riding for hours every day with heavy baggage attached is completely different from doing some quick rides in your local area. You will be fucking destroyed if you're going up mountains and don't have low gears.
I don't know how much you're willing to invest, but a cheap touring bike would be more than good enough for your distance. If you already have a decent bike at home, it could probably work as well. The main thing with touring bikes is that they need a stronger frame and wheels than regular bikes, since they will have to support heavy weight for many hours every day without breaking. But this gets more important the further you travel, so with your distance a random decent bike could do, assuming the wheels and everything are in order.
>What are other factors about bicycle I should pay attention to while travelling ?
If you're actually planning to do a bike tour, there's a whole lot of advice I could give you. Pic related is from a tour I did last year.
>What would be an approx time to reach my destination?
Depends on where you're cycling (hills, flat ground, trafficated area, etc.), your phsyical shape, your bike, how much you're willing to cycle each day, and so on. Assuming everything is average, you could probably do 100km a day, meaning you would spend 17 days. Could be more or less, depending on the aforementioned factors.
>What bicycle should I buy for it?
You want comfort above all, if the bike doesen't fit you well, then you will develop pain and have to quit early. A good seat and handlebar is most important. If the handlebar is too low (so you have to lean forward and put all your weight on it), you can develop carpal tunnel and shoulder problems. A drop handlebar and butterfly bar gives less vibration than a straight handlebar (what most bikes have), so you should consider that. A bad seat can give you rashes and ass pain, therfore a wide and soft seat is best for touring. A regular bike seat will probably fuck you up rather quickly.
You need to try out the bike on some long rides in your local area before going on tour, to see that it is comfortable and doesen't give you any problems. Otherwise your tour could very well end up to being a total failure.
Also, the bike should have at least 21 gears, because you need those low gears, especially if you're touring up in mountains. Riding for hours every day with heavy baggage attached is completely different from doing some quick rides in your local area. You will be fucking destroyed if you're going up mountains and don't have low gears.
I don't know how much you're willing to invest, but a cheap touring bike would be more than good enough for your distance. If you already have a decent bike at home, it could probably work as well. The main thing with touring bikes is that they need a stronger frame and wheels than regular bikes, since they will have to support heavy weight for many hours every day without breaking. But this gets more important the further you travel, so with your distance a random decent bike could do, assuming the wheels and everything are in order.
>What are other factors about bicycle I should pay attention to while travelling ?
If you're actually planning to do a bike tour, there's a whole lot of advice I could give you. Pic related is from a tour I did last year.
>>43354
How far were you typically from sources of potable water, and how much did you carry with you between refills?
How far were you typically from sources of potable water, and how much did you carry with you between refills?
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>>43355
>How far were you typically from sources of potable water
About half my trip took place in the mountains, where I had fresh mountain water available at any time. Half of my trip were in the mainlands, with almost no fresh running water to be found. I would refill my bottles in graveyards (free water), typically only a 3 hour bike ride away from the next one.
>and how much did you carry with you between refills?
Had two 0,75l bottles in the bottle cages on my bike, and one 1,5l bottle in my baggage. In the start I felt that the 1,5l bottle was unnecessary, especially since luggage space is precious when bike touring. But when I entered the mainlands, I definitely appreciated the fact that I had it with me. You will consume a lot of water when biking all day, and there could even be an emergency situation if you're running low on fluids in the middle of nowhere. I was only semi-worried in one situation, but it wasn't any real threat at all. Water is easily found in my country. If you're in a dry area or something, you will probably have to stack up a lot of water. This is not something to be messed with.
>How far were you typically from sources of potable water
About half my trip took place in the mountains, where I had fresh mountain water available at any time. Half of my trip were in the mainlands, with almost no fresh running water to be found. I would refill my bottles in graveyards (free water), typically only a 3 hour bike ride away from the next one.
>and how much did you carry with you between refills?
Had two 0,75l bottles in the bottle cages on my bike, and one 1,5l bottle in my baggage. In the start I felt that the 1,5l bottle was unnecessary, especially since luggage space is precious when bike touring. But when I entered the mainlands, I definitely appreciated the fact that I had it with me. You will consume a lot of water when biking all day, and there could even be an emergency situation if you're running low on fluids in the middle of nowhere. I was only semi-worried in one situation, but it wasn't any real threat at all. Water is easily found in my country. If you're in a dry area or something, you will probably have to stack up a lot of water. This is not something to be messed with.
>>43353
For a rough estimate of trip time put the start and end location in google maps and it will give you a estaimate of how long it things the trip will take. Keep in mind that it doesn't take in consideration breaks/ time off bike, or stuff like weather and road conditions. It does include hills in its estimate though, which is nice.
As for bicycle, it should be one you are very comfortable on since you will be on it for hours at a time.
As for other factors you really want to have the means and knowledge to do common repairs that may come up during your ride. Also put some thought into how you want to carry your gear and how much you are comfortable dragging around on your trip. My last tip is learn to listen to both your body and your bike.
For a rough estimate of trip time put the start and end location in google maps and it will give you a estaimate of how long it things the trip will take. Keep in mind that it doesn't take in consideration breaks/ time off bike, or stuff like weather and road conditions. It does include hills in its estimate though, which is nice.
As for bicycle, it should be one you are very comfortable on since you will be on it for hours at a time.
As for other factors you really want to have the means and knowledge to do common repairs that may come up during your ride. Also put some thought into how you want to carry your gear and how much you are comfortable dragging around on your trip. My last tip is learn to listen to both your body and your bike.
>>43354
I personally prefer thin seats. Less contact points with the seat means less points of friction, means my ass feels better for longer.
When I tried big squishy seats they rubbed me totally raw.
I personally prefer thin seats. Less contact points with the seat means less points of friction, means my ass feels better for longer.
When I tried big squishy seats they rubbed me totally raw.
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>>43370
>I personally prefer thin seats.
I'm not saying you have to use wide seats, but personally I have quite wide hip-bones. This is another factor to take into consideration. If you can bike for 8 hours on a regular thin seat without any problems at all, then you're probably fine to use it on a tour.
>I personally prefer thin seats.
I'm not saying you have to use wide seats, but personally I have quite wide hip-bones. This is another factor to take into consideration. If you can bike for 8 hours on a regular thin seat without any problems at all, then you're probably fine to use it on a tour.
My experience with saddles is that there are two main factors:
What you are used to
What the shape of your ass is
If you change the saddle, your ass will have to re-harden in different positions. My experience is that I went from a bike with a cutout relief section in the middle to one with a more traditional shaped saddle and it was really uncomfortable at first. I'm waiting on a new saddle to arrive (from aliexpress, I love their cheap bicycle stuff, since bicycle stuff is all overpriced in the west due to the main market being middle aged men with too much money) but I'm gradually getting used to the saddle. Well I say that but I just had a fairly unpleasant ride on it. Either I need more hardening or this really isn't a good saddle for me. I suspect the latter.
Either way when trying saddles, stick with each one for at least a month or 400km just to get a feel for it. Get a feel for what you do and do not like about it, how much the shape matches your butt, and what a more comfortable design would be like.
Another thing worth trying if you don't mind it is trying out saddles. Bike shops will often let you try out saddles for a while, exchanging them for a different shape. Not sure how long they'll let you try it out but it's definitely worth considering. You'll probably pay more for the saddle, butit's better than buying 3-4 different, cheaper saddles since it'll end up costing less. And you'll get a higher quality saddle.
Another thing you want to avoid is overly padded saddles. They can be more comfortable to sit on but they can cause blood flow and skin problems.
What you are used to
What the shape of your ass is
If you change the saddle, your ass will have to re-harden in different positions. My experience is that I went from a bike with a cutout relief section in the middle to one with a more traditional shaped saddle and it was really uncomfortable at first. I'm waiting on a new saddle to arrive (from aliexpress, I love their cheap bicycle stuff, since bicycle stuff is all overpriced in the west due to the main market being middle aged men with too much money) but I'm gradually getting used to the saddle. Well I say that but I just had a fairly unpleasant ride on it. Either I need more hardening or this really isn't a good saddle for me. I suspect the latter.
Either way when trying saddles, stick with each one for at least a month or 400km just to get a feel for it. Get a feel for what you do and do not like about it, how much the shape matches your butt, and what a more comfortable design would be like.
Another thing worth trying if you don't mind it is trying out saddles. Bike shops will often let you try out saddles for a while, exchanging them for a different shape. Not sure how long they'll let you try it out but it's definitely worth considering. You'll probably pay more for the saddle, butit's better than buying 3-4 different, cheaper saddles since it'll end up costing less. And you'll get a higher quality saddle.
Another thing you want to avoid is overly padded saddles. They can be more comfortable to sit on but they can cause blood flow and skin problems.
>>40528
I put a flashlight in front and blinking red thing on my backpack if I ride at night, and use common sense during the day and have never had any close calls in about 10 years of moderately intense cycling.
I put a flashlight in front and blinking red thing on my backpack if I ride at night, and use common sense during the day and have never had any close calls in about 10 years of moderately intense cycling.
>>43670
Being seen is incredibly important when on your bike. When it's dark you can't over-light yourself, really. Just be careful not to shine your front light into the eyes of oncoming traffic. Rude and dangerous.
For some reason reflectors are in the laws for bikes across the globe but reflectors are useless. You need lights. A rear light is great even if it's just moderately cloudy. Not all drivers have as good vision as they should, and the flashing rear light is an amazing attention grabber. Even when cycling I notice cyclists from much further away because of their rear lights.
That said I do leave it at home when it's sunny or generally still just fairly bright. I do wear bright coloured clothing though (anime jerseys).
Being seen is incredibly important when on your bike. When it's dark you can't over-light yourself, really. Just be careful not to shine your front light into the eyes of oncoming traffic. Rude and dangerous.
For some reason reflectors are in the laws for bikes across the globe but reflectors are useless. You need lights. A rear light is great even if it's just moderately cloudy. Not all drivers have as good vision as they should, and the flashing rear light is an amazing attention grabber. Even when cycling I notice cyclists from much further away because of their rear lights.
That said I do leave it at home when it's sunny or generally still just fairly bright. I do wear bright coloured clothing though (anime jerseys).
I finally took my bike into the shop to get my rear sprocket and chain replaced. While I was there I got a kickstand (which they installed for free) too. I didn't realize how "mushy" the drive train felt until I got it fixed. Now it shifts perfect and when I peddle I can feel all my power transfer to the wheel. Makes my bike feel nice and "crisp".
>>43678
I recommend learning how to do this stuff yourself. At the very least chain replacement and indexing. Taking your sprocket off requires some $30 worth of tools, but the chain and indexing requires almost nothing.
Mainly because if your rear cassette/freewheel was replaced along with your chain probably meant you never replaced your chain, and you probably didn't clean it, either.
I recommend learning how to do this stuff yourself. At the very least chain replacement and indexing. Taking your sprocket off requires some $30 worth of tools, but the chain and indexing requires almost nothing.
Mainly because if your rear cassette/freewheel was replaced along with your chain probably meant you never replaced your chain, and you probably didn't clean it, either.
Anyone had some extremely stuck parts?
I gotta restore my pedals hub but the lugnuts (I think they're called) holding it together are seriously stuck. There's no visible rust. I tried oil and beating them loose with a huge plumber's wrench and a hammer. Nothing works. What do you do?
I gotta restore my pedals hub but the lugnuts (I think they're called) holding it together are seriously stuck. There's no visible rust. I tried oil and beating them loose with a huge plumber's wrench and a hammer. Nothing works. What do you do?
>>43681
>and you probably didn't clean it, either
Fuck you buddy. I clean my chain every week.
I was getting my rear sprocket changed anyway and my chain was worn out too so it makes sense to get the chain replaced at the same time.
Getting the sprocket replaced, parts and labor, was about $40 bucks because one of the dudes at the bike shop special ordered a rear cassette because he knew I was coming in soon to get some work done and he said I "would really appreciate the higher quality component judging by how much and how hard you already seem to ride that thing". Why would I pay almost as much for tools that I would only use maybe once every 6 months or so.
Yeah I can replace a chain if I have too, but I am still somewhat new to cycling so I don't notice when I actually should replace my chain. I still suck at indexing though. What takes me hours of fucking around with the thing and still having it feel off takes the dudes at the shop a few minutes and feels almost perfect. Most of the time if I am getting something else done or buying something they will index my bike for free because it is so quick and easy for them.
The reasonable fee and slightly higher price of parts are worth the ease and exceptional results to me. They are true professionals.
>and you probably didn't clean it, either
Fuck you buddy. I clean my chain every week.
I was getting my rear sprocket changed anyway and my chain was worn out too so it makes sense to get the chain replaced at the same time.
Getting the sprocket replaced, parts and labor, was about $40 bucks because one of the dudes at the bike shop special ordered a rear cassette because he knew I was coming in soon to get some work done and he said I "would really appreciate the higher quality component judging by how much and how hard you already seem to ride that thing". Why would I pay almost as much for tools that I would only use maybe once every 6 months or so.
Yeah I can replace a chain if I have too, but I am still somewhat new to cycling so I don't notice when I actually should replace my chain. I still suck at indexing though. What takes me hours of fucking around with the thing and still having it feel off takes the dudes at the shop a few minutes and feels almost perfect. Most of the time if I am getting something else done or buying something they will index my bike for free because it is so quick and easy for them.
The reasonable fee and slightly higher price of parts are worth the ease and exceptional results to me. They are true professionals.
>>43686
They only last so many miles no matter how nicely you treat them.
I ride with a lot of torque and commute a lot of miles on country roads.
Basically I ride the fuck out of my bike.
They only last so many miles no matter how nicely you treat them.
I ride with a lot of torque and commute a lot of miles on country roads.
Basically I ride the fuck out of my bike.
Man, I cleaned my chain, it has only been a week and I bearably rode but my chain was way dirtier then usual.
I looked like I hadn't cleaned the thing in a month. I guess it was all the riding after rain storms and switching to a wet lube. It works well but it sure is a dirt magnet.
I looked like I hadn't cleaned the thing in a month. I guess it was all the riding after rain storms and switching to a wet lube. It works well but it sure is a dirt magnet.
>>44074
That's been my experience with wet lubes too. They stick extremely well, and they're waterproof, but they sure do pick up dirt.
They're also hard to clean. I haven't found anything water based that will deal with a wet lube, you need IPA to loosen that shit.
That's been my experience with wet lubes too. They stick extremely well, and they're waterproof, but they sure do pick up dirt.
They're also hard to clean. I haven't found anything water based that will deal with a wet lube, you need IPA to loosen that shit.
Some sites say you can patch inner tubes with rubber cement and cut off squares of other inner tubes. Has anyone tried this?
>>44199
i use a rubber glue and cut patches from an old, lightweight tube. lightweight tube is made of a thinner rubber.
i use a rubber glue and cut patches from an old, lightweight tube. lightweight tube is made of a thinner rubber.
>>44200
What's rubber glue? Is is the stuff that melts the rubber together? I can't get ahold of anything that fancy.
What's rubber glue? Is is the stuff that melts the rubber together? I can't get ahold of anything that fancy.
>>44201
without melting. it works by evaporation of the solvent. a tube of glue/stuff/mixture that can glue rubber.
without melting. it works by evaporation of the solvent. a tube of glue/stuff/mixture that can glue rubber.
I need to get a <150 dollar bike from Target tomorrow for transpo purposes. I need some tips on how to maintain it with the most minimal effort. I don't want to pay someone to fix it but I'm probably too dumb to fix it myself too. Any advice?
>>44221
Consider increasing your budget. Maintaining a bike yourself is about little and often. Do the easy stuff often to preserve the hard stuff longer. Good news is that maintenance is easy and inexpensive, but you will need to invest in tools.
I recommend checking out the used market first, since $150 new bikes are going to be bad, but $150 older bikes can be really good. Being new to bikes makes buying older bikes daunting though, so it's fine to not.
I'd recommend spending more money on a hybrid. A $300 hybrid with entry level shimano parts will be easier to fix and break less often. I'd heavily recommend spending enough to get out of the 'cheap chinese crap' zone. Some may call that elitist, but it'll be your transport and you need to take care of it.
Consider increasing your budget. Maintaining a bike yourself is about little and often. Do the easy stuff often to preserve the hard stuff longer. Good news is that maintenance is easy and inexpensive, but you will need to invest in tools.
I recommend checking out the used market first, since $150 new bikes are going to be bad, but $150 older bikes can be really good. Being new to bikes makes buying older bikes daunting though, so it's fine to not.
I'd recommend spending more money on a hybrid. A $300 hybrid with entry level shimano parts will be easier to fix and break less often. I'd heavily recommend spending enough to get out of the 'cheap chinese crap' zone. Some may call that elitist, but it'll be your transport and you need to take care of it.
>>44221
>I need some tips on how to maintain it with the most minimal effort.
>a <150 dollar bike from Target
Pick one and only one.
I also hope you plan on practically rebuilding the thing yourself since the assembly in big box stores is more often then not comically bad. The components will be both shit and nonstandard so when it comes time to replace things you will be fucked. And the things need a lot more maintenance to keep from falling apart since literally every component is of the shitest quality they could find.
Basiclly at that price you may as well consiter the thing a disposable bike. You might get a year of regular riding with basic maintenance but I really doubt it will last much longer if you are regularly commuting with the thing.
That said as for some general advice, keep the pressure topped up in your tires, clean and lube your chain like once a week, and pay attention to when something doen't feel or sound right on your bike.
>I need some tips on how to maintain it with the most minimal effort.
>a <150 dollar bike from Target
Pick one and only one.
I also hope you plan on practically rebuilding the thing yourself since the assembly in big box stores is more often then not comically bad. The components will be both shit and nonstandard so when it comes time to replace things you will be fucked. And the things need a lot more maintenance to keep from falling apart since literally every component is of the shitest quality they could find.
Basiclly at that price you may as well consiter the thing a disposable bike. You might get a year of regular riding with basic maintenance but I really doubt it will last much longer if you are regularly commuting with the thing.
That said as for some general advice, keep the pressure topped up in your tires, clean and lube your chain like once a week, and pay attention to when something doen't feel or sound right on your bike.
>>44210
Oh. Well I tried some elmers rubber cement today and it seems to work. After four patches and three hours of riding, my tube hasn't deflated…yet. Time will tell.
Oh. Well I tried some elmers rubber cement today and it seems to work. After four patches and three hours of riding, my tube hasn't deflated…yet. Time will tell.
>>44222
Any recommendations for a 200-300 dollar hybrid? What kind of tools do I need and what kind of maintenance? I don't know anything about bikes so I can't possibly gauge the state of a used bike to know if it's missing parts or not.
Any recommendations for a 200-300 dollar hybrid? What kind of tools do I need and what kind of maintenance? I don't know anything about bikes so I can't possibly gauge the state of a used bike to know if it's missing parts or not.
>>44222
>>44225
What do you think of this?
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bik/d/mountain-bike/6627056606.html
>>44225
What do you think of this?
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bik/d/mountain-bike/6627056606.html
>>44233
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bik/d/roadmaster-bike-like-new/6625553493.html
There's also this but I have no idea how to compare the two.
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bik/d/roadmaster-bike-like-new/6625553493.html
There's also this but I have no idea how to compare the two.
>>44234
I'd ignore the roadmaster. Specialised is a real bike manufacturer so it should be okay. Problem is I can't see the components. If you can contact the guy and ask what make the rear derailleur, shifters and front derailleur are that'd help. Who knows though.
Basically bike advice is: Shimano drivetrain. Buying a new bike has the advantage that you know exactly what you're getting. Right now I have a fever and don't feel too good, but buying a new bike is quite daunting. If you can find a bicycle maintenance manual I highly recommend reading it if for nothing else than to learn what the parts are called.
But really though my best piece of advice is to get something that you'll want to ride and take care of. Don't buy something you don't like.
I'd ignore the roadmaster. Specialised is a real bike manufacturer so it should be okay. Problem is I can't see the components. If you can contact the guy and ask what make the rear derailleur, shifters and front derailleur are that'd help. Who knows though.
Basically bike advice is: Shimano drivetrain. Buying a new bike has the advantage that you know exactly what you're getting. Right now I have a fever and don't feel too good, but buying a new bike is quite daunting. If you can find a bicycle maintenance manual I highly recommend reading it if for nothing else than to learn what the parts are called.
But really though my best piece of advice is to get something that you'll want to ride and take care of. Don't buy something you don't like.
>>44236
https://www.amazon.com/ORKAN-Mountain-Hybrid-Suspension-Shimano/dp/B079Z5DLHF/ref=sr_1_35?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1530219465&sr=1-35&keywords=mountain%2Bbike&th=1
What do you think of this?
Has the Shimano derailluer you talk about and is an affordable price. I don't have much of a preference for bikes so I like anything that looks decent but can be maintained. I don't want to take it to a bike store and be told that it costs less to buy a new bike than to repair my current one.
https://www.amazon.com/ORKAN-Mountain-Hybrid-Suspension-Shimano/dp/B079Z5DLHF/ref=sr_1_35?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1530219465&sr=1-35&keywords=mountain%2Bbike&th=1
What do you think of this?
Has the Shimano derailluer you talk about and is an affordable price. I don't have much of a preference for bikes so I like anything that looks decent but can be maintained. I don't want to take it to a bike store and be told that it costs less to buy a new bike than to repair my current one.
>>44237
It's 7 speed (at the rear), which is below entry level in the shimano range. Buying bikes in the sub-$300 range is about finding the least bad one.
https://www.amazon.com/Critical-Cycles-Barron-Hybrid-Graphite/dp/B071ZBPWBB
Seems to be not bad. IT's still 7 speed tourney though, which is a freehub not cassette.
Maybe this?
https://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-Discover-Hybrid-Wheels-Black/dp/B0030U8SU6/
It's hard to recommend a bike here but general rules should be aluminium frame and not less than $200.
It's 7 speed (at the rear), which is below entry level in the shimano range. Buying bikes in the sub-$300 range is about finding the least bad one.
https://www.amazon.com/Critical-Cycles-Barron-Hybrid-Graphite/dp/B071ZBPWBB
Seems to be not bad. IT's still 7 speed tourney though, which is a freehub not cassette.
Maybe this?
https://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-Discover-Hybrid-Wheels-Black/dp/B0030U8SU6/
It's hard to recommend a bike here but general rules should be aluminium frame and not less than $200.
For a change of pace I blew my front tire today while riding in grass and soft wet dirt. I have no clue what caused the puncture this time but by now it doesn't even matter.
Getting paid tomorrow so I will pick up new "25% more adorable flat resistant tires" from Walmart. I don't expect much but maybe I will get slightly less flats. The tread on my current tires is halfway worn out anyway, and the ones I plan on getting even have reflectors built in. It is just cheap and convenient and they would look nice on my bike.
Getting paid tomorrow so I will pick up new "25% more adorable flat resistant tires" from Walmart. I don't expect much but maybe I will get slightly less flats. The tread on my current tires is halfway worn out anyway, and the ones I plan on getting even have reflectors built in. It is just cheap and convenient and they would look nice on my bike.
>>44243
Probably not the best idea. Don't get super cheap chink quality tires, they never last. Schwalbe Marathons are good if you just don't want punctures full stop. I don't know about offroad tires though since I never do any offroading.
Probably not the best idea. Don't get super cheap chink quality tires, they never last. Schwalbe Marathons are good if you just don't want punctures full stop. I don't know about offroad tires though since I never do any offroading.
>>44244
Lets see, 80$ bucks and waiting around for weeks for the things to ship or buying the most convenient option for the price of a standard tire by a normal tire company that has factories in the US. Tires I can buy in person and have them on my bike later that day.
You are a shill, aren't you, because otherwise what you are doing makes no sense. How much to you get paid for shilling on this out of the way website? Shouldn't you be using spam bots and puppit account to advertise on bike dedicated forums and comment sections?
Lets see, 80$ bucks and waiting around for weeks for the things to ship or buying the most convenient option for the price of a standard tire by a normal tire company that has factories in the US. Tires I can buy in person and have them on my bike later that day.
You are a shill, aren't you, because otherwise what you are doing makes no sense. How much to you get paid for shilling on this out of the way website? Shouldn't you be using spam bots and puppit account to advertise on bike dedicated forums and comment sections?
>>44245
I really don't understand your anger. I mention them because they're good at not getting punctures.
They are however heavy and slow and feel sluggish. I'd only recommend them if you want to go 4500 miles without a puncture and don't really care that they feel like riding on rocks.
I really don't understand your anger. I mention them because they're good at not getting punctures.
They are however heavy and slow and feel sluggish. I'd only recommend them if you want to go 4500 miles without a puncture and don't really care that they feel like riding on rocks.
>>44246
That is such bullshit, the most certainly do get punctures you fucking liar.
I wasted my money on such claims and they didn't even last me a month.
The other wiz is right in that you are a shill because you piched the same bullshit when I was complaining about punctures months ago.
You shill them littrally any time someone mentions punctures.
That is such bullshit, the most certainly do get punctures you fucking liar.
I wasted my money on such claims and they didn't even last me a month.
The other wiz is right in that you are a shill because you piched the same bullshit when I was complaining about punctures months ago.
You shill them littrally any time someone mentions punctures.
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>>44243
I just use these things that go between the tube and tire. Only time I get flats is when something enters from the side, which is rarely. Found em in a thrift store for like $2.
I just use these things that go between the tube and tire. Only time I get flats is when something enters from the side, which is rarely. Found em in a thrift store for like $2.
>>44250
I keep on reading online that those can puncture the tube, but I think if they are installed right and you don't use really thin tubes they can work well.
I keep on reading online that those can puncture the tube, but I think if they are installed right and you don't use really thin tubes they can work well.
>>44248
You fail to mention the most important part of your story: You didn't try marathons and went straight for the solid tire meme.
You fail to mention the most important part of your story: You didn't try marathons and went straight for the solid tire meme.
>>44257
I tried the same shit from a different brand, remember.
Built the same, had similar reviews, preforms the same, etc.
But no they aren't the specific brand that you are being payed to push so it don't count right. It would be totally different if I used your miracle tires that never get flat and are bullet proof, despite personal experience and plenty of reviews that say otherwise.
I am with the other dude.
How much are they paying you and why are you shilling here?
You keep this shit up and next time I am reporting you for rule 12.
I tried the same shit from a different brand, remember.
Built the same, had similar reviews, preforms the same, etc.
But no they aren't the specific brand that you are being payed to push so it don't count right. It would be totally different if I used your miracle tires that never get flat and are bullet proof, despite personal experience and plenty of reviews that say otherwise.
I am with the other dude.
How much are they paying you and why are you shilling here?
You keep this shit up and next time I am reporting you for rule 12.
>>44252
Yeah, granted there's some tricks involved. If their ends overlap then the extra pressure in that spot creates an impression in the tube which eventually results in a rupture, but that's prevented by just cutting the liner to correct length and skiving and taping the cut off end. Also they tend to shift toward the sides of the tubes during inflation which will result in problems, so they must get taped to the tire. But that's all it takes.
Yeah, granted there's some tricks involved. If their ends overlap then the extra pressure in that spot creates an impression in the tube which eventually results in a rupture, but that's prevented by just cutting the liner to correct length and skiving and taping the cut off end. Also they tend to shift toward the sides of the tubes during inflation which will result in problems, so they must get taped to the tire. But that's all it takes.
>>44237
I recommend watching this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxy6hdUOrlc
It's not about bike buying, but it is interesting. It's a guy who bought a used bike in rough condition, and the video is him going through it and overhauling it. RJ is the best for bike stuff since he deals with cheaper bikes, and gets into the nitty gritty a lot.
I recommend watching this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxy6hdUOrlc
It's not about bike buying, but it is interesting. It's a guy who bought a used bike in rough condition, and the video is him going through it and overhauling it. RJ is the best for bike stuff since he deals with cheaper bikes, and gets into the nitty gritty a lot.
Holy shit is it annoying trying to get a liner into a new tire.
It doen't have that deep curve to keep it in place yet so it just slips out each time.
I am going to put the tire on the rim without the liner and inflate to pressure to hopefully get the tire into proper shape to make this less difficult.
It doen't have that deep curve to keep it in place yet so it just slips out each time.
I am going to put the tire on the rim without the liner and inflate to pressure to hopefully get the tire into proper shape to make this less difficult.
>>44281
Got the liners in after shaping the tires (put tires on and inflated to full pressure then took them off). Tried using duck tape to hold them in place but the tape's adhesive couldn't stick on the liners at all. I centered them as best I could, I just have to hope they stayed in the right position when I put the tires back on the rims.
So far the new tires feel great, far better than the onces I had on my bike before and even better than the ones the bike came with. I think it is because these new ones are totally rounded in shape rather then sort of trapezoidal like my old ones. It means less contact with the ground so less roll resistance and higher "agility". They run at 10 psi lower so the level of ride comfort feels the same.
Will probably suck pretty hard if I hit any sand or really lose dirt but on all other surfaces they preform better. And since the tread isn't warn out they are safer in the wet, which is nice.
So far I am really glad I upgraded my tires.
Got the liners in after shaping the tires (put tires on and inflated to full pressure then took them off). Tried using duck tape to hold them in place but the tape's adhesive couldn't stick on the liners at all. I centered them as best I could, I just have to hope they stayed in the right position when I put the tires back on the rims.
So far the new tires feel great, far better than the onces I had on my bike before and even better than the ones the bike came with. I think it is because these new ones are totally rounded in shape rather then sort of trapezoidal like my old ones. It means less contact with the ground so less roll resistance and higher "agility". They run at 10 psi lower so the level of ride comfort feels the same.
Will probably suck pretty hard if I hit any sand or really lose dirt but on all other surfaces they preform better. And since the tread isn't warn out they are safer in the wet, which is nice.
So far I am really glad I upgraded my tires.
Cleaned my bike today. Gave the drivetrain a nice deep cleanse, and the frame and wheels had a good soapy wet wash too. Tweaked the brakes a little bit so the pulls were as close to identical as I could make them, and so that the pads both touched the rim at the same time. (You get much more controllable braking if you have symmetrical pads).
Added some frame protection stickers as there was some hefty rubbing from the cable housings at the front. Gave it a towel-down and left it to dry in the sun, then relubed derailleur pivots, and the chain. Should ride well tomorrow.
It's taken me a while to learn how to clean my bike properly, although when I mean properly I mean before I started lubing it I was manipulating the chain with my bare hands since it was sparkling clean.
Overall the secret is clean brushes. I soak anything that's touched the drivetrain in IsoPropyl Alcohol before using it again. I have a tupperwear container that I poured IPA into to do this. Any you don't spill is reusable. I've found if you don't do this you get greasy black smears over everything. Generally IPA is the solution to grease. I've not found a single water-based degreaser that actually works on wet lube or waterproof grease (not particularly surprising).
Added some frame protection stickers as there was some hefty rubbing from the cable housings at the front. Gave it a towel-down and left it to dry in the sun, then relubed derailleur pivots, and the chain. Should ride well tomorrow.
It's taken me a while to learn how to clean my bike properly, although when I mean properly I mean before I started lubing it I was manipulating the chain with my bare hands since it was sparkling clean.
Overall the secret is clean brushes. I soak anything that's touched the drivetrain in IsoPropyl Alcohol before using it again. I have a tupperwear container that I poured IPA into to do this. Any you don't spill is reusable. I've found if you don't do this you get greasy black smears over everything. Generally IPA is the solution to grease. I've not found a single water-based degreaser that actually works on wet lube or waterproof grease (not particularly surprising).
well the rubber cement + chunks of inner tube trick worked perfectly
wish I knew this like 15 years ago, woulda spared me a ton of stress and bullshit
wish I knew this like 15 years ago, woulda spared me a ton of stress and bullshit
>>44306
Cool, i will give it a shot. I have almost a full box of tubes wuth punctures that I haven't even bothered to try and fix since every patch kit I tried that was less then a set of tubes didn't work.
Fuck paying ten bucks for a patch kit. I literally just bought a new tube each time one got a hole because it was cheaper and actually was sure to work.
Cool, i will give it a shot. I have almost a full box of tubes wuth punctures that I haven't even bothered to try and fix since every patch kit I tried that was less then a set of tubes didn't work.
Fuck paying ten bucks for a patch kit. I literally just bought a new tube each time one got a hole because it was cheaper and actually was sure to work.
>>44305
Use gears, they really aren't hard to maintain.
As for actual advice: You are best off looking in the used market from some old road bike, then converting it to SS. Why? New SS bikes are all designed for the hipster market and so cost a fuckton. You may be able to find a used bike that's already SS, in that case great. Generally you want a frame with horizontal dropouts, but it's not required. It's preferred to keep chain tension though. without one you'll want a chain tensioner, which is essentially a derailleur that can't change gear.
Go for gears dude. If you hate gears, get an old road bike with friction shifters and just never change gear.
Use gears, they really aren't hard to maintain.
As for actual advice: You are best off looking in the used market from some old road bike, then converting it to SS. Why? New SS bikes are all designed for the hipster market and so cost a fuckton. You may be able to find a used bike that's already SS, in that case great. Generally you want a frame with horizontal dropouts, but it's not required. It's preferred to keep chain tension though. without one you'll want a chain tensioner, which is essentially a derailleur that can't change gear.
Go for gears dude. If you hate gears, get an old road bike with friction shifters and just never change gear.
>>44312
If he wants a ss then he should get a ss.
Despite the hipsters a new good one cost about the same as a quality cruiser and less then even a budget road bike.
I don't know how the used market is for ss though.
If he wants a ss then he should get a ss.
Despite the hipsters a new good one cost about the same as a quality cruiser and less then even a budget road bike.
I don't know how the used market is for ss though.
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How does one separate this evil bastard without special tools? I tried lifting it from underneath with a prybar and hammer. I tried blasting it clean with a pressure washer. Tried oiling it and baking it with a blowtorch. It doesn't budge at all.
What's a guaranteed method?
What's a guaranteed method?
>>44429
Although if you're determined to keep using it, get a crank puller for square-tapered cranks. When it comes to the bottom bracket, you either use the special tool or it doesn't come off.
Although if you're determined to keep using it, get a crank puller for square-tapered cranks. When it comes to the bottom bracket, you either use the special tool or it doesn't come off.
>>44434
He assumes you detempered the frame, which seems unlikely to me.
Unless you goth the parts so hot they were glowing it is probably fine. Unless you are mountain biking or doing BMX you will have plenty of warning at the point where the frame is deforming or cracking before it catastrophically fails if you fucked it up with the blowtorch. Once you have the thing in riding condition just keep a eye on that area and check it before every ride for the first month or so. If everything looks good then it is fine.
He assumes you detempered the frame, which seems unlikely to me.
Unless you goth the parts so hot they were glowing it is probably fine. Unless you are mountain biking or doing BMX you will have plenty of warning at the point where the frame is deforming or cracking before it catastrophically fails if you fucked it up with the blowtorch. Once you have the thing in riding condition just keep a eye on that area and check it before every ride for the first month or so. If everything looks good then it is fine.
>>44435
>He assumes you detempered the frame
Yeah, that's what it sounded like, but you'd only torch the end of it anyway, inside the aluminum crank, which I did. Not the frame. So I don't know how the frame is concerned.
Besides, these department store bicycles and their innards are all low carbon steel, so even assuming they come from the factory hardened, it'd be a really low hardness like 40 rockwell, so there's no use worrying about forcing the frame's hardness (marginally) lower with flame. Hell, if I were that worried about a few points of hardness I'd just reharden it by getting it glowing orange and turning the garden hose on it. Same as any low carbon steel. This isn't my first time torching parts.
It's just my first stuck crank. ……… I really hate that fucking bastard.
>He assumes you detempered the frame
Yeah, that's what it sounded like, but you'd only torch the end of it anyway, inside the aluminum crank, which I did. Not the frame. So I don't know how the frame is concerned.
Besides, these department store bicycles and their innards are all low carbon steel, so even assuming they come from the factory hardened, it'd be a really low hardness like 40 rockwell, so there's no use worrying about forcing the frame's hardness (marginally) lower with flame. Hell, if I were that worried about a few points of hardness I'd just reharden it by getting it glowing orange and turning the garden hose on it. Same as any low carbon steel. This isn't my first time torching parts.
It's just my first stuck crank. ……… I really hate that fucking bastard.
>>44452
It's bullshit. Or if it isn't, they fail to mention that a normal chain is like 98% efficient or some shit. The bigger problem though is that they haven't given you a way to change gears on that system. Also it'd be heavier, since you need a lot of strong material to cope with the retarded angle of force on that kind of design.
It's bullshit. Or if it isn't, they fail to mention that a normal chain is like 98% efficient or some shit. The bigger problem though is that they haven't given you a way to change gears on that system. Also it'd be heavier, since you need a lot of strong material to cope with the retarded angle of force on that kind of design.
>>44453
Actually is is far lighter (so they claim) and they already have a system to change gears as seen in >>44451
That said I still think their claims of efficiency must be bullshit.
For example if they really were that efficient then shouldn't they keep spinning long after the person stops pushing on the cranks?
Actually is is far lighter (so they claim) and they already have a system to change gears as seen in >>44451
That said I still think their claims of efficiency must be bullshit.
For example if they really were that efficient then shouldn't they keep spinning long after the person stops pushing on the cranks?
>For example if they really were that efficient then shouldn't they keep spinning long after the person stops pushing on the cranks?
yeah, wouldn't mind owning a pseudo-perpetual motion bicycle myself
yeah, wouldn't mind owning a pseudo-perpetual motion bicycle myself
I've noticed fatbikes don't have shock-absorbers, and they generally seem to fall into my style of riding, What do you think Wizards? It would probably get me to drive out in winter, along the beach and off-road.
>>44588
They're very slow. And heavy. I'd recommend an MTB with front but not rear suspension. It'll handle beach and offroad and be lighter so you go faster.
Depends on what you want though. Fat bikes have very limited applications which is why I generally advise against them.
They're very slow. And heavy. I'd recommend an MTB with front but not rear suspension. It'll handle beach and offroad and be lighter so you go faster.
Depends on what you want though. Fat bikes have very limited applications which is why I generally advise against them.
I switched back to a thinner lube. The wet stuff works good but it gets so incredibly dirty so fast. I was starting to worry that I would wear out my drive train extra fast despite riding less.
On a unrelated note, I can't wait until it cools down. I can't cycle the way I want in this heat. Anything above grandma level effort makes me feel like my brain is going to melt if I keep it up for more then a few minutes.
On a unrelated note, I can't wait until it cools down. I can't cycle the way I want in this heat. Anything above grandma level effort makes me feel like my brain is going to melt if I keep it up for more then a few minutes.
after all these years I suddenly realized how to avoid those obnoxious bumps when riding over railroad tracks intersecting the streets: just cross them parallel instead of at an angle
for what it's worth
for what it's worth
Just accidentally confirmed that cheap walmart "flatless" extra durable tires + plastic tube guard thingy actually works at protecting against punctures.
I wasn't paying attention and ran over some glass. Normally it would have killed my tube, but this time everything was all good. Finding out it works gives me just a little more peace of mind.
I wasn't paying attention and ran over some glass. Normally it would have killed my tube, but this time everything was all good. Finding out it works gives me just a little more peace of mind.
Lost yet another tail light. I even added ducktape this time to make sure it stayed put, but nope it is gone.
>>44869
I am not sure if you are trying to be funny or if you are unaware that ducktape is a name brand of duct tape
Anyway I just got a new one so I am going to try wire this time.
I am not sure if you are trying to be funny or if you are unaware that ducktape is a name brand of duct tape
Anyway I just got a new one so I am going to try wire this time.
>>44868
I recommend tail lights from aliexpress, mainly because they're cheap and you don't feel bad if you lose them. Except the whole waiting a month for them to arrive thing, so I recommend bulk.
I recommend tail lights from aliexpress, mainly because they're cheap and you don't feel bad if you lose them. Except the whole waiting a month for them to arrive thing, so I recommend bulk.
>>44875
The sell them where I work so when I add the employee discount they aren't too bad. Like 9 bucks and it is in my hand that day.
I have had pretty bad exp with nearly everything I have ordered from ali. It was ether hyper cheap defective junk, or the seller fucked up the order and ether sent the wrong thing, misadvertised what the thing actually is, or never shipped in the first place.
The sell them where I work so when I add the employee discount they aren't too bad. Like 9 bucks and it is in my hand that day.
I have had pretty bad exp with nearly everything I have ordered from ali. It was ether hyper cheap defective junk, or the seller fucked up the order and ether sent the wrong thing, misadvertised what the thing actually is, or never shipped in the first place.
>>44875
>from aliexpress
You mean cheap shit from china that breaks in less time then it takes to ship it here?
Fuck that site and junk peddlers that sell on it.
>from aliexpress
You mean cheap shit from china that breaks in less time then it takes to ship it here?
Fuck that site and junk peddlers that sell on it.
>>44877
>>44879
I've had mostly positive experiences with aliexpress junk. I've bought 4-5 rear lights and only one has failed, and I fixed it myself with a soldering iron. Then lost it. But this is why I have so many, since I always carry a spare. $4-5 each.
I've had the lights for a while and they survived last winter.
>>44879
I've had mostly positive experiences with aliexpress junk. I've bought 4-5 rear lights and only one has failed, and I fixed it myself with a soldering iron. Then lost it. But this is why I have so many, since I always carry a spare. $4-5 each.
I've had the lights for a while and they survived last winter.
Forgot my lock at home so had to buy yet another lock. Now I have a big U-lock a small one, a big ass chain and a thick security cable.
I like the chain+cable the most as far as ease of use and security but it is a pain to lug around. U-locks are easier to lug around but a pain in the ass to use, and I am always nervous someone will come along with a huge metal bar or angle grinder and pry or cut it off.
I is always a trade off of how it will be a pain in the ass, but there is no way to completely avoid the inconveniences.
I like the chain+cable the most as far as ease of use and security but it is a pain to lug around. U-locks are easier to lug around but a pain in the ass to use, and I am always nervous someone will come along with a huge metal bar or angle grinder and pry or cut it off.
I is always a trade off of how it will be a pain in the ass, but there is no way to completely avoid the inconveniences.
>>45219
There are no locks that beat angle grinders. Some lock manufacturers offer insurance schemes so if that their locks are cut through, they'll pay to replace your bike. The best overall lock strategy for a bike is d-lock plus cable. Thick, hardened steel d-lock. Ideally motorcycle rated. Generally what I do is I look in the review sections for pictures of cut or broken locks. If it's just full of idiots then you're good.
There are no locks that beat angle grinders. Some lock manufacturers offer insurance schemes so if that their locks are cut through, they'll pay to replace your bike. The best overall lock strategy for a bike is d-lock plus cable. Thick, hardened steel d-lock. Ideally motorcycle rated. Generally what I do is I look in the review sections for pictures of cut or broken locks. If it's just full of idiots then you're good.
>carrying and using an angle grinder in public
Really. Are there any bicycle thieves willing to go far except for very flashy or expensive looking bicycles? That's the biggest reason I've never installed anything desirable looking on mine and let the frame stay dirty and scratched. Nobody wants to steal a junky looking bicycle if the effort to do so takes more than a bolt cutter.
Really. Are there any bicycle thieves willing to go far except for very flashy or expensive looking bicycles? That's the biggest reason I've never installed anything desirable looking on mine and let the frame stay dirty and scratched. Nobody wants to steal a junky looking bicycle if the effort to do so takes more than a bolt cutter.
>>45237
It happens. However, a sturdy D-lock makes it extremely loud, and makes it take almost a minute. But they cut through locks.
It happens. However, a sturdy D-lock makes it extremely loud, and makes it take almost a minute. But they cut through locks.
I am seriously considering getting a electric bike as my primary form of transportation.
What are you guys thoughts and experience with e-bikes?
What are you guys thoughts and experience with e-bikes?
>>45358
They're boring; but this just means they work. Stick some panniers and racks on it and it'll be a good hauler too. I use a road bike as my primary form of transport and I don't have many problems.
They're boring; but this just means they work. Stick some panniers and racks on it and it'll be a good hauler too. I use a road bike as my primary form of transport and I don't have many problems.
>>45223
>There are no locks that beat angle grinders
I imagine a (hardened) d-lock like 2" thick would beat angle grinders
would weigh like 15lbs but it'd beat em, after about an inch down the cutting wheel would tilt, bind and break
>There are no locks that beat angle grinders
I imagine a (hardened) d-lock like 2" thick would beat angle grinders
would weigh like 15lbs but it'd beat em, after about an inch down the cutting wheel would tilt, bind and break
>>45366
If you have the right grinding wheel and cut slowly you can still grind through it, but it would take a long time and throw molting hot shards of metal everywhere attracting all of the attention while you do it. That said, no matter how much attention it attracts if people don't actually know the bike owner they will not do shit about it, and just assume the person cutting the lock has a justifiable reason to do so without even asking.
If you have the right grinding wheel and cut slowly you can still grind through it, but it would take a long time and throw molting hot shards of metal everywhere attracting all of the attention while you do it. That said, no matter how much attention it attracts if people don't actually know the bike owner they will not do shit about it, and just assume the person cutting the lock has a justifiable reason to do so without even asking.
>cheap E-bike cost around $800
>conversion kit that has lithium batteries big enough to actually cover my commute cost a little over $800
>call local bike shop
>cheapest electric bike they can ship in is $3000
WTF, I have no idea what I am doing and the price of things don't make any sense to me.
>conversion kit that has lithium batteries big enough to actually cover my commute cost a little over $800
>call local bike shop
>cheapest electric bike they can ship in is $3000
WTF, I have no idea what I am doing and the price of things don't make any sense to me.
>>45415
what's the point of e-bikes? the price seems to be on par with scooters, might as well get that.
what's the point of e-bikes? the price seems to be on par with scooters, might as well get that.
>>45416
Far cheaper upkeep,no dealing with registration or insurance, no paying for gas and expensive repairs, can get away with using bike Lanes, sidewalks, and other places bikes can go but gas powered viehicals can't, you can stll get exercise if you want, and many other reasons.
Far cheaper upkeep,no dealing with registration or insurance, no paying for gas and expensive repairs, can get away with using bike Lanes, sidewalks, and other places bikes can go but gas powered viehicals can't, you can stll get exercise if you want, and many other reasons.
Nothing like seeing the upper limits of human potential to get you inspired to push a little harder.
The evedence is in and cycling isn't bad for men's junk.
Good to know since it is my main form of transport.
Good to know since it is my main form of transport.
Riding season is back.
Anyone else do spring-time restoration? How long does it usually take you? I've spent 12 hours so far disassembling and scrubbing everything to the last ball bearing. I'm still not done reassembling. It's always such grueling work, but unavoidable.
Anyone else do spring-time restoration? How long does it usually take you? I've spent 12 hours so far disassembling and scrubbing everything to the last ball bearing. I'm still not done reassembling. It's always such grueling work, but unavoidable.
>>47699
I live in a area where you can basically bike year around, though summer is a bit dangerous to go hard in. I can bearly be assed to do a cleaning of bike ever couple of months, never less a full on cleaning.
I do still clean and oil my chain every week unless I haven't been riding much though. I am not a total bike slob. Everything on my bike still feels good so I don't think any parts need replacing or it needs anything really done to it. Usually I wait until something feels a little off before really looking into if a part needs changing or a repair is needed.
I live in a area where you can basically bike year around, though summer is a bit dangerous to go hard in. I can bearly be assed to do a cleaning of bike ever couple of months, never less a full on cleaning.
I do still clean and oil my chain every week unless I haven't been riding much though. I am not a total bike slob. Everything on my bike still feels good so I don't think any parts need replacing or it needs anything really done to it. Usually I wait until something feels a little off before really looking into if a part needs changing or a repair is needed.
Checked out a new bike shop today. After asking a few questions I test rode a road bike. Good god was it fast. I loved it but I just don't have the space for two bikes right now.
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>give my chain and gears a good cleaning
>decide it is a nice day to ride to the beach
>get sand all up in my gears and chain
>already have to clean my chain again
>decide it is a nice day to ride to the beach
>get sand all up in my gears and chain
>already have to clean my chain again
>can't tune my rear derailleur
>whoops the connecting part of the fork is bent in (wtf)
>steering grinds to a halt
>oh a chunk broke off the lower headset cup
>start wobbling
>a spoke magically disappeared
it's always something with my bicycle leeme tell ya
>whoops the connecting part of the fork is bent in (wtf)
>steering grinds to a halt
>oh a chunk broke off the lower headset cup
>start wobbling
>a spoke magically disappeared
it's always something with my bicycle leeme tell ya
Had my first ride of 2019. I was winded by the end of what used to be my normal warm-up ride, and becoming reacquainted with the smell of fresh maneur didn't help. My chain keeps slipping, and my knee hurts from bad posture for half the trip, but otherwise it was a perfect day.
How do you get back into riding after a long, freezing winter?
How do you get back into riding after a long, freezing winter?
>>47815
It sounds really worn out. It might be time to replace the whole derailleur and maintenance the whole drive-train.
It sounds really worn out. It might be time to replace the whole derailleur and maintenance the whole drive-train.
It is nice to ride in the spring.
You can actually smell the flowers without having to stop.
You can actually smell the flowers without having to stop.
>>48330
I want to convert my main comuter bike, but haven't pulled the trigger on buying it.
I don't like spending that much money at one time as it usally goes badly for me. So I am pretty adverse to dropping the $800+ for the kit.
I want to convert my main comuter bike, but haven't pulled the trigger on buying it.
I don't like spending that much money at one time as it usally goes badly for me. So I am pretty adverse to dropping the $800+ for the kit.
i fucking LOVE riding my bike.
i don't think anything brings me as much joy and a sense of freedom as riding my bike does.
I used to live in a really bike friendly city. now i live in a bumfuck town with no bike lanes. riding my bike outside of my neighborhood is a death sentence.
i don't think anything brings me as much joy and a sense of freedom as riding my bike does.
I used to live in a really bike friendly city. now i live in a bumfuck town with no bike lanes. riding my bike outside of my neighborhood is a death sentence.
>>48409
USD?
Even used all you are likely to get is a ultra shit bike shaped object.
You can not get a "comfy road bike" at that price.
Save your money or prepare for the pain of a scrap of shit that will be lucky to survive a year of regular use.
USD?
Even used all you are likely to get is a ultra shit bike shaped object.
You can not get a "comfy road bike" at that price.
Save your money or prepare for the pain of a scrap of shit that will be lucky to survive a year of regular use.
>>48412
Usually it is the other way around for the same sized bike when ever I am looking at bikes. Womens bikes generally are cheaper because they are smaller. But when you compare the same production line and size the succubi's bikes cost more.
>>48409
>road bike
>comfy
At that price pick one and only one.
At that price range I strongly recommend getting something used. Don't get a big box store bike (walmart,target,etc). They are bad in almost every way and do not last long at all. They are called BSO for a reason.
Even bike shops don't like working on them because they are so notoriously bad.
"Poor quality parts that don't fit correctly and that are not able to cope with any use. Heavy, Not safe to use on the road. Very poor value for money. Bad cycling experience - this is the main reason to avoid these bikes."
Usually it is the other way around for the same sized bike when ever I am looking at bikes. Womens bikes generally are cheaper because they are smaller. But when you compare the same production line and size the succubi's bikes cost more.
>>48409
>road bike
>comfy
At that price pick one and only one.
At that price range I strongly recommend getting something used. Don't get a big box store bike (walmart,target,etc). They are bad in almost every way and do not last long at all. They are called BSO for a reason.
Even bike shops don't like working on them because they are so notoriously bad.
"Poor quality parts that don't fit correctly and that are not able to cope with any use. Heavy, Not safe to use on the road. Very poor value for money. Bad cycling experience - this is the main reason to avoid these bikes."
>>48413
>Usually it is the other way around for the same sized bike
what I noticed is that you gotta pay a premium for gender neutral colored bikes, like black or dark blue, but if you can deal with a little fruity lining you can catch the same bike at a discount because no one wants a fruity bike
>Usually it is the other way around for the same sized bike
what I noticed is that you gotta pay a premium for gender neutral colored bikes, like black or dark blue, but if you can deal with a little fruity lining you can catch the same bike at a discount because no one wants a fruity bike
>>48412
i really get your point and respect what you're saying, but there are some key differences between a womans and a mens bike. womans bike tend to compensate for a womans wider hips, whereas a mens bike compensates for wide shoulder width. or soemthing like that.
but if it's comfy for you, then stick with what works.
i really get your point and respect what you're saying, but there are some key differences between a womans and a mens bike. womans bike tend to compensate for a womans wider hips, whereas a mens bike compensates for wide shoulder width. or soemthing like that.
but if it's comfy for you, then stick with what works.
>>48412
is the upper tube between the handlebar and seat horizontal or angled down? people used to mock my bicycle and say that an angled tube makes it a gurl's bicycle (for some unspoken reason), I never could figure that out
it should be the opposite, because if you happen to slide forward off your seat during a big bump or abrupt braking at high speed there's no horizontal bar to land on and crush your nuts
is the upper tube between the handlebar and seat horizontal or angled down? people used to mock my bicycle and say that an angled tube makes it a gurl's bicycle (for some unspoken reason), I never could figure that out
it should be the opposite, because if you happen to slide forward off your seat during a big bump or abrupt braking at high speed there's no horizontal bar to land on and crush your nuts
>>48433
Traditionally it was angled down to preserve a succubi modesty when getting on the bike with a skirt or dress. Mainly seen on cruisers and grandma bikes.
Sport/road female bikes don't have such a design, instead having different geometry to better fit the biomechanical differences from males.
Traditionally it was angled down to preserve a succubi modesty when getting on the bike with a skirt or dress. Mainly seen on cruisers and grandma bikes.
Sport/road female bikes don't have such a design, instead having different geometry to better fit the biomechanical differences from males.
>>48409
I decided to build my own bike from scratch , less cost , much comfy , and i will edit it as i want , also it's my hobby to build stuff , so i will waste my time in something i like
Calculations came even less than 150 dollars , but in my country things are relatively cheap
The only thing bothers me is that i can't find disk brake frame for road bike , i think i will be a little bothered by v brakes but i think it's ok
Thanks anons for help
I decided to build my own bike from scratch , less cost , much comfy , and i will edit it as i want , also it's my hobby to build stuff , so i will waste my time in something i like
Calculations came even less than 150 dollars , but in my country things are relatively cheap
The only thing bothers me is that i can't find disk brake frame for road bike , i think i will be a little bothered by v brakes but i think it's ok
Thanks anons for help
>>48451
>I decided to build my own bike from scratch
>less cost
That is extremely unlikely unless you are salvaging all the parts for free or something
> much comfy
That depends on your level of experience properly fitting a bike. Bike fit is the number one thing when it comes to comfort on a bike. Something that generally is only learned through lots of experience.
Also are you factoring in the price specialist tools or do you already have a full set up?
>I decided to build my own bike from scratch
>less cost
That is extremely unlikely unless you are salvaging all the parts for free or something
> much comfy
That depends on your level of experience properly fitting a bike. Bike fit is the number one thing when it comes to comfort on a bike. Something that generally is only learned through lots of experience.
Also are you factoring in the price specialist tools or do you already have a full set up?
Officially got hit by a car.
Wasn't hurt, or even freaked out about it. Just sort of happened.
I was in the bike lane passing a parking lot. Some old succubus who didn't look both ways pulled out then slowly turned into me and bumped me on my butt despite my best efforts to get the drivers attention by ringing my bell and yelling.
She pulls over and I give her a stern talking to like she is a child to walked into me while playing or something. I was just mildly annoyed and offended by her rudness and lack of attention in bumping me with her car.
After I told her off I let her know I was fine and rode off. While I guess I could have milked it for money or something it would have inconvenienced me more then necessary.
Real wake up call that even if you do everything right all it takes is one idiot not paying attention for a few seconds in a ton of steel to fuck you up if things go bad. It could have been so much worse. So in that way, as far a being hit by a car I was lucking in that no harm was done to me or my bike. Only thing that was hurt was my feelings.
Wasn't hurt, or even freaked out about it. Just sort of happened.
I was in the bike lane passing a parking lot. Some old succubus who didn't look both ways pulled out then slowly turned into me and bumped me on my butt despite my best efforts to get the drivers attention by ringing my bell and yelling.
She pulls over and I give her a stern talking to like she is a child to walked into me while playing or something. I was just mildly annoyed and offended by her rudness and lack of attention in bumping me with her car.
After I told her off I let her know I was fine and rode off. While I guess I could have milked it for money or something it would have inconvenienced me more then necessary.
Real wake up call that even if you do everything right all it takes is one idiot not paying attention for a few seconds in a ton of steel to fuck you up if things go bad. It could have been so much worse. So in that way, as far a being hit by a car I was lucking in that no harm was done to me or my bike. Only thing that was hurt was my feelings.
>>48571
you’re supposed to ride defensively, as in assume everyone is a retard
>imagining wiz tinkling his little bike bell at a car trying to get its attention
lol
you’re supposed to ride defensively, as in assume everyone is a retard
>imagining wiz tinkling his little bike bell at a car trying to get its attention
lol
>>48571
just ride as if you were invisible, but at the same time as if every cager was out to run you over
just ride as if you were invisible, but at the same time as if every cager was out to run you over
>>48573
>>48572
I was, but the car rode right into me from behind and I had nowhere else to go, nor could I out pace the car.
It was ether take the hit/try to get their attention, or ride out the bike lane directly into a MUCH faster passing car.
Basically there was nothing I could have done differently to have avoided getting hit as they pulled out and turned directly into me after I passed. Which is why they hit my buns, because they were behind me from the side within the bike lane. Didn't even have the option of riding on the sidewalk like a asshole as there was no sidewalk.
>>48572
I was, but the car rode right into me from behind and I had nowhere else to go, nor could I out pace the car.
It was ether take the hit/try to get their attention, or ride out the bike lane directly into a MUCH faster passing car.
Basically there was nothing I could have done differently to have avoided getting hit as they pulled out and turned directly into me after I passed. Which is why they hit my buns, because they were behind me from the side within the bike lane. Didn't even have the option of riding on the sidewalk like a asshole as there was no sidewalk.
>>48571
Same happened to me twice, the criminally negligent bastards never look both ways, especially at intersections where they're always making illegal turns. The only direction they're checking is wayyy over there in case there's a cop.
I really fucking hate cars, I hate people, and when I'm riding I don't trust them for a moment. Do what I do. If they brake and wave you to go past, don't even trust them then, just wait until they give up and leave.
Same happened to me twice, the criminally negligent bastards never look both ways, especially at intersections where they're always making illegal turns. The only direction they're checking is wayyy over there in case there's a cop.
I really fucking hate cars, I hate people, and when I'm riding I don't trust them for a moment. Do what I do. If they brake and wave you to go past, don't even trust them then, just wait until they give up and leave.
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Do you guys log your rides? I started using strava, it's not that accurate if I compare it to my bike computer, but it's good for overall statistics.
>>48590
Nope.
Don't have a better or bike computer and the only app I use is maps.
Then again I mostly bike to get to place to place these days and I am not serious about training.
Nope.
Don't have a better or bike computer and the only app I use is maps.
Then again I mostly bike to get to place to place these days and I am not serious about training.
Who here e-bikes?
>>48590
Can't be too serious with my bicycling stats as I'm too busy watching the traffic.
>>48590
Can't be too serious with my bicycling stats as I'm too busy watching the traffic.
>>48605
It is a LOT of money man. I just can't convince myself to finally get a conversion kit for my commuter bike.
You would think I would since I really hate having to try and lug 100+ pounds of shit up hill in a windstorm, but I hate spending over $500 bucks on a single purchase even more.
It is a LOT of money man. I just can't convince myself to finally get a conversion kit for my commuter bike.
You would think I would since I really hate having to try and lug 100+ pounds of shit up hill in a windstorm, but I hate spending over $500 bucks on a single purchase even more.
>>40522
I'm so tired of being on a bike every single day for 15 years. Even after I finished HS, every goddamn day.
I just can't wait to get my license
>>48571
Eh, nobody gives a shit about traffic laws if you're on a bike. I don't really complain about it, I can pass red lights all the time etc.
I did become more cautious recently, though that's just because I realized riding without brakes can be pretty dangerous
I'm so tired of being on a bike every single day for 15 years. Even after I finished HS, every goddamn day.
I just can't wait to get my license
>>48571
Eh, nobody gives a shit about traffic laws if you're on a bike. I don't really complain about it, I can pass red lights all the time etc.
I did become more cautious recently, though that's just because I realized riding without brakes can be pretty dangerous
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